THE TAK E OFF Ni­co­las Gh­esquière moves his Louis Vuit­ton story for­ward with a fash­ion jour­ney that weaves through dis­parate times and cul­tures. By Jeffrey Yan.

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - The News -

Ni­co­las Gh­esquière’s first three run­way show­ings for Louis Vuit­ton were about es­tab­lish­ing the fa­mil­iar­ity of beloved wardrobe clas­sics. He did these with sharp A-line coats, miniskirts, skinny blaz­ers, blue denim, vel­vet, and lace; all flavoured with a dis­tinct, easy-to-wear Sev­en­ties vibe. This sea­son, he’s pro­gressed from the for­mula. His Au­tumn/Win­ter ’15 col­lec­tion is his most mod­ern one yet for Vuit­ton in which he deftly mixed those vintage vibes with a much wel­comed rock-chick edge, com­mer­cial­ity (which sets apart his work for Vuit­ton from his Ba­len­ci­aga era), and high-tech in­no­va­tion that has al­ways been his call­ing card. The girl at the core of the story re­mains the same, but she’s de­cid­edly less retro-in­clined.

The show opened with large shaggy coats in brushed sheep­skin. Func­tional and pro­tec­tive, yes; but also highly want-able, es­pe­cially when paired with low boots and miniskirts – some in se­quins, some leather, some trimmed with snake­skin and buckle de­tails. The other items sure to jump to the top of shop­ping lists are the sci-fi cut-out knits that sparkle sub­tly and curl up at the hems and sleeves. Like many of Gh­esquière’s ideas in this show, they feel novel; yet you won’t have dif­fi­culty trans­lat­ing these into real life.

His other no­table propo­si­tion for the sea­son was the leg-of-mut­ton sleeve, a relic from the 1800s that would have been a dis­as­ter in the hands of a lesser de­signer. Gh­esquière trans­formed this into some­thing ab­so­lutely right for now with tech­ni­cal fab­rics, a youth­ful mini hem­line, and clever ac­ces­soris­ing – best il­lus­trated by Hol­ly­wood pretty young things Gia Cop­pola and Alicia Vikan­der who have been spot­ted in these di­rec­tional gigot sleeves.

Louis Vuit­ton Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’15

Leather pumps, Louis Vuit­ton Alma BB bag in Epi leather with em­broi­dery, Louis Vuit­ton

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