THE TAK E OFF Nicolas Ghesquière moves his Louis Vuitton story forward with a fashion journey that weaves through disparate times and cultures. By Jeffrey Yan.
Nicolas Ghesquière’s first three runway showings for Louis Vuitton were about establishing the familiarity of beloved wardrobe classics. He did these with sharp A-line coats, miniskirts, skinny blazers, blue denim, velvet, and lace; all flavoured with a distinct, easy-to-wear Seventies vibe. This season, he’s progressed from the formula. His Autumn/Winter ’15 collection is his most modern one yet for Vuitton in which he deftly mixed those vintage vibes with a much welcomed rock-chick edge, commerciality (which sets apart his work for Vuitton from his Balenciaga era), and high-tech innovation that has always been his calling card. The girl at the core of the story remains the same, but she’s decidedly less retro-inclined.
The show opened with large shaggy coats in brushed sheepskin. Functional and protective, yes; but also highly want-able, especially when paired with low boots and miniskirts – some in sequins, some leather, some trimmed with snakeskin and buckle details. The other items sure to jump to the top of shopping lists are the sci-fi cut-out knits that sparkle subtly and curl up at the hems and sleeves. Like many of Ghesquière’s ideas in this show, they feel novel; yet you won’t have difficulty translating these into real life.
His other notable proposition for the season was the leg-of-mutton sleeve, a relic from the 1800s that would have been a disaster in the hands of a lesser designer. Ghesquière transformed this into something absolutely right for now with technical fabrics, a youthful mini hemline, and clever accessorising – best illustrated by Hollywood pretty young things Gia Coppola and Alicia Vikander who have been spotted in these directional gigot sleeves.
Louis Vuitton Autumn/ Winter ’15
Leather pumps, Louis Vuitton Alma BB bag in Epi leather with embroidery, Louis Vuitton