LOVE LETTER S Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana pay tribute to mothers with a heartwarming collection that blends their signature opulence with a new whimsical naiveté. By Jeffrey Yan.
This past February in Milan at the Dolce & Gabbana headquarters, when the lights dimmed and the curtains lifted, something quite rare (especially after three weeks of fashion shows) happened. The audience broke out in ‘aww’s and smiles. The reason: the tableau vivant that formed the backdrop consisted of ten mothers and their adorable children; the baby boys in crisp dress shirts and the girls in dreamy white lace.
Even without referring to the notes on our seats, that tableau along with the giant ‘mamma’ and the red rose in the background (as well as the Spice Girls hit of the same name on the soundtrack) told us that this collection would be about mothers, mirroring their men’s show in January which reflected on the theme of family.
That red rose featured prominently in the collection. Dolce and Gabbana chose that particular flower as it was what children in Italy gave their mothers on Mother’s Day. Here, it was blown up and printed on sweet little pastel dresses or against a background of vampy black lace. It was also used as 3D embroidery on richly-coloured dresses alongside love notes scrawled across them in golden sequins.
At its heart, the collection was still quintessentially Dolce & Gabbana. They’ve spent years establishing the house codes – glamour and femininity through distinctly Italian lens. This translates into sensual hourglass silhouettes, opulently gilded accessories, classic prints such as polka-dots, flowers and leopard, and ladylike touches the likes of corsets and gloves. All those elements were still present in the Autumn/Winter ’15 collection but their decision to look to the idea of family as a starting point instead of their Sicilian heritage and culture means that this season’s woman feels lighter in both colour and spirit.
It wasn’t a huge departure (their campaigns after all have
Backstage at Dolce & Gabbana Autumn/ Winter ’15