MOD R ETRO

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - The News -

You guys al­ways have your fin­ger on the pulse of what’s new and sur­pris­ing in fash­ion. How do you ap­proach the cre­ative parts of your job? HUM­BERTO LEON: We al­ways try to tell a story through what we do, and to ap­proach ev­ery­thing both as the viewer and as the con­sumer. Cul­ture is a big part of what we do, and we al­ways re­fer back to it. We’re inspired by all kinds of things – food, art, film, movies, TV – all the stuff we love, whether it’s an older movie like Com­ing To Amer­ica or a new show like Trans­par­ent. We like to ex­plore. CAROL LIM: I think for us it al­ways starts from a per­sonal place. Now that we each have our own fam­i­lies, our kids have be­come part of the land­scape, too, down to func­tional things like, “Oh, my gosh, this doesn’t ex­ist. We should try to make this.” It’s fun be­cause you dis­cover things that you wouldn’t re­ally look at if you didn’t have kids. It kind of opened up a whole world for us. The Au­tumn col­lec­tion for Open­ing Cer­e­mony was inspired by the di­rec­tor Spike Jonze. What was it like col­lab­o­rat­ing with him? HL: It was prob­a­bly one of the most per­sonal en­deav­ours we’d ever worked on. We were al­lowed to go into Spike’s photo ar­chives and sort through his im­ages. We’d al­ready seen some of them be­cause they were pub­lished in mag­a­zines or he shared them with us, but this was a re­ally in-depth look at 20 years of some­one’s life. Much of it was from the ’90s, so it was kind of hard to es­cape, but it was more the at­ti­tude of that decade that we were af­ter in our col­lec­tion than the clothes of the time. CL: We grew up dur­ing that pe­riod; there was this ease and laid-back ap­proach we re­ally liked see­ing. I think that was the start­ing point for us. How do we cap­ture that? We love that feel­ing. Your show for Kenzo this sea­son was filled with colour­ful prints, in­ter­est­ing shapes, as well as danc­ing holo­graphic trees. Where did all that come from? CL: I think it was this idea of com­mu­nity – about a group of women, their re­la­tion­ship and how they live. That idea was re­ally present with Kenzo Takada. When you look at our pre­sen­ta­tion, with the prints and tech­niques, and even the set­ting and chore­og­ra­phy of what we imag­ined with the ab­stract trees that were mov­ing, these were the things that led to the cre­ation of it. How would you say de­sign­ing for Kenzo is sim­i­lar to or dif­fer­ent from de­sign­ing for Open­ing Cer­e­mony? HL: Well, Kenzo him­self had a store when he first started, so he was a re­tailer to be­gin with, just like we are. But the main dif­fer­ence is that Open­ing Cer­e­mony rep­re­sents us, and with Kenzo we’ve brought some things to the brand that weren’t there be­fore. We’ve brought a dig­i­tal plat­form and a dif­fer­ent idea of com­mu­nity, and a lot of that comes from what we’ve de­vel­oped at Open­ing Cer­e­mony. De­sign­ers you’re ex­cited about? HL: Mar­ques’Almeida is great, as is Craig Green, and there’s this denim line out of LA called 69 that’s amaz­ing. You both hung out a lot at malls as kids. Where did you shop? And how does the mall scene then com­pare with to­day? HL: Back then I liked Con­tempo Ca­su­als, Oak Tree, Esprit, and Jour­neys to an ex­tent. CL: Benet­ton, Miller’s Out­post. HL: I feel like a lot of mall stores now have got­ten more generic and less spe­cialised. There were ones then that were all about cargo or the out­doors – they used to re­ally own their iden­ti­ties. As told to Priya Rao.

Kenzo Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’15 Kenzo Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’15 Open­ing Cer­e­mony Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’15

Hum­berto Leon and Carol Lim

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