DARK HORSE Perfect lines, classic reds, and elegant updos are given a darker spin this season. It’s Stepford with a twist, ladies, and we love it. By Li Ying Lim.
After seasons of bohemians, gypsies and rock ’n’ rollers, the impeccable lady makes her appearance on the Autumn/Winter ’ 15 runways. It’s all about top-to-toe beauty, so taking it literally from there, hair is impossibly polished, with glittering jewels side-pinning doll-like coifs, as seen at Prada, while gold floral-wreaths halo soft curls at Dolce & Gabbana. Eyes and brows are gloriously smokey, cheeks gorgeously contoured, and lips in powerful glossy shades of wine and red. But look closer, and you will see a darker edge to that ladylike patina. “The look is very chic and uptown,” Guido Palau, Redken’s hair consultant and Marc Jacobs’ backstage fixture, describes the hair at Marc Jacobs this season. “Marc was talking about a very put-together woman – not easy breezy – wearing uptown clothes, but downtown hair. We talked about Edith Sitwell and Diana Vreeland a lot.”
The maestro kept Redken Guts 10 close at hand “to control” the hairstyles. “You’re pushing the hair in the way it doesn’t want to go,” he says. “The hair is slightly ’40s and ’70s. It has a dual-era to it.”
But here comes the twist. “Marc had this idea of a sophisticated woman, with Diana Vreeland as a base and the book Swans – taking it then making it more modern and more edgy,” recalls François Nars, Jacobs’ make-up right-hand man. So the lips are lacquered up with a very matt eggplant hue, with “very structured eyebrows,” an odd mismatch of matchstick lines.
“We’re using this beige-taupey colour, which becomes kind of silver, almost, because we’re applying a lot of gloss over the eyelid,” Nars explains. “Absolutely no blush or mascara, just to bring a little bit more strangeness to the eye.”
Naeem Khan Autumn/ Winter ’15