DARK HORSE Per­fect lines, clas­sic reds, and el­e­gant up­dos are given a darker spin this sea­son. It’s Step­ford with a twist, ladies, and we love it. By Li Ying Lim.

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - Beauty Bazaar -

Af­ter sea­sons of bo­hemi­ans, gyp­sies and rock ’n’ rollers, the im­pec­ca­ble lady makes her ap­pear­ance on the Au­tumn/Win­ter ’ 15 run­ways. It’s all about top-to-toe beauty, so tak­ing it lit­er­ally from there, hair is im­pos­si­bly pol­ished, with glit­ter­ing jewels side-pin­ning doll-like coifs, as seen at Prada, while gold flo­ral-wreaths halo soft curls at Dolce & Gab­bana. Eyes and brows are glo­ri­ously smokey, cheeks gor­geously con­toured, and lips in pow­er­ful glossy shades of wine and red. But look closer, and you will see a darker edge to that la­dy­like patina. “The look is very chic and up­town,” Guido Palau, Red­ken’s hair con­sul­tant and Marc Ja­cobs’ back­stage fix­ture, de­scribes the hair at Marc Ja­cobs this sea­son. “Marc was talk­ing about a very put-to­gether woman – not easy breezy – wear­ing up­town clothes, but down­town hair. We talked about Edith Sitwell and Diana Vree­land a lot.”

The mae­stro kept Red­ken Guts 10 close at hand “to con­trol” the hair­styles. “You’re push­ing the hair in the way it doesn’t want to go,” he says. “The hair is slightly ’40s and ’70s. It has a dual-era to it.”

But here comes the twist. “Marc had this idea of a so­phis­ti­cated woman, with Diana Vree­land as a base and the book Swans – tak­ing it then mak­ing it more mod­ern and more edgy,” re­calls François Nars, Ja­cobs’ make-up right-hand man. So the lips are lac­quered up with a very matt egg­plant hue, with “very struc­tured eye­brows,” an odd mis­match of match­stick lines.

“We’re us­ing this beige-tau­pey colour, which be­comes kind of sil­ver, al­most, be­cause we’re ap­ply­ing a lot of gloss over the eye­lid,” Nars ex­plains. “Ab­so­lutely no blush or mas­cara, just to bring a lit­tle bit more strange­ness to the eye.”

Naeem Khan Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’15

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