SUM­MARY SEA­SON

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - THE STYLE -

Em­brac­ing Au­tumn’s mas­cu­line-fem­i­nine

If you’ve read that boho, Vic­to­rian Gothic, and Jamie Lee Curtis (I’m m not kid­ding) are all mak­ingng a come­back this Au­tumn, mn, then the sea­son might t be fill­ing you with a deepp and jus­ti­fied sense of fore­bod­ing.oding. On a run­way some­where, all of those in­flu­ences made an ap­pear­ance. ance. But most stylish women don’t wake ke up think­ing, I have to chan­nel Bar­barel­laarella on the school run to­day, and thenn I’m switch­ing to Ra­pun­zel. For those who do, and it works for them, mazel l tov. This is for those who want to look k au courant, as op­posed to car­ried away.y

So bear with me. I’ve cracked this.his. There are only two im­por­tant trends nds we need to keep in mind right now:ow: wom­anly and manly. I know, it sounds nds al­most too re­duc­tive. But these twowo forks will lead us down the path to some fab­u­lous clothes.

The wom­anly woman is very wom­anly in­deed. I’m think­ing prin­ci­pally of Burberry’s suede­fringed ’70s groupies; Chanel’s haute bour­geois housewives, withh their per­fectly judged knee-length h skirts and sex­ily sen­si­ble knits; Prada’s ada’s pas­tel Jackie Kennedy–meets–Ital­ian princesses; ; Dior’s space-age cadets; Valentino’s and Er­dem’s ro­man­ti­cally man­ti­cally in­clined and much em­bel­lished me­dieval muses; and Dolce & Gab­bana’s stu­pen­dously glam­orousorous Ital­ian ma­mas (be­lieve me, Dolce’s mama has never er leaned in – she’s too busy telling her do­mes­tic staff whatat to do). I’m think­ing too of Gucci’s screwy but stylish Mar­got Te­nen­baum dop­pel­gängers, with their pleated leather kilts and faux-

revo­lu­tion. By Lisa Armstrong. in­no­cent “Did I re­ally for­get to put on my bra?” sheer blouses.

And then there were Ric­cardo Tisci’s “Vic­to­rian Chola girls” at Givenchy. For the unini­ti­ated, (okay, I ad­mit it, that was me) “Chola girls” isi a term some­times used to de­scribe first-fir and sec­ond-gen­er­a­tion Mex­i­canAmer­i­can women whose ad­vanced de­grees in lip liner, baggy pants, and elab­o­ra­teel hair and eye make-up have made for some of the most rit­u­alised and strik­ing girl-gang looks of our time. Tisci took all that and chucked in some High Gothic lace and corseted tai­lor­ing.t Be­cause that’s what you do whenw you’re . cre­ative.

We’re not done. Michael Kors’ de­li­ciously clas­sic camelis­tas will make you want to never dress like a Marx­ist stu­den­tst again, as­sum­ing you ever did. Mi­uc­ciaMiu Prada ac­tu­ally was a Marx­ist stu­dentstude and is said to have favoured Yves SaintS Lau­rent. But that was Italy. In­ci­den­tally,In­ci­den if you haven’t met a camelista, you’re i in for a honey-coloured treat. There isn’t a beigy-gold-toneb piece of cash­mere or lace this tawny-limbed god­dess hasn’t loved, worn, an­dan mas­tered. Even her Maltipoo is cham­pagne-hued.cham­pag

Did y you no­tice what hap­pened dur­ing that list ofo Au­tumn in­spi­ra­tions? We went from 1475 to 1975, tak­ing in about 20 dif­fer­ent re­li­gious, eth eth­nic, and po­lit­i­cal per­sua­sions. And I haven’t even men­tioned the ’80s vibes at Loewe or the ’90s re­vival­re­viv at Christo­pher Kane.

As I was say­ing,sa the only way to make sense of all this is to de­finedefin it all as supremely fem­i­nine. Which it is, though notn nec­es­sar­ily in a uni­form way. At

Dolce & Gab­bana Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’15

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