Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - THE BAZAAR MAN -

Kim Jones pays trib­ute to iconic Eight­ies de­signer Christo­pher Nemeth with his latest Louis Vuit­ton col­lec­tion. By Jeffrey Yan.

The clothes that Kim Jones pro­duces for Louis Vuit­ton may be sleek and so­phis­ti­cated, be­fit­ting the French lux­ury mai­son, but they are never clin­i­cal. For Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’15, he went on a dif­fer­ent kind of jour­ney – into the ar­chives of in­flu­en­tial English de­signer and artist Christo­pher Nemeth. Way be­fore it was a trend, Nemeth was al­ready mix­ing her­itage tai­lor­ing with street in­flu­ences, mak­ing a name for him­self with his de­con­structed suits and his il­lus­tra­tions of threads and ropes. Jones trans­planted four orig­i­nal prints from the ar­chives onto sharp, youth­ful sil­hou­ettes.

Even though the clothes in this col­lec­tion have a strong sense of craft and her­itage, they still feel mod­ern and wearable. And like all of Jones’ work for Vuit­ton, there is an ac­tive, travel-ready edge that makes the pieces feel any­thing but stuff y.

Jones printed and em­broi­dered Nemeth’s iconic rope mo­tifs on dou­ble-breasted wool coats, camel outer­wear, cash­mere sweaters, duf­fle coats, and anoraks. They were also used on ac­ces­sories like back­packs, cross­body pouches, boxy totes, and lug­gage bags; some of them over­laid on the house’s mono­gram and Damier check. There were also qui­eter pieces that pro­vided a break from the busy prints – bonded leather jack­ets, quilted ny­lon bombers and jump­suits, and cream-coloured sheep­skin.

Another method that Jones used to trans­port his Nemeth ref­er­ence from retro to now is the Louis Vuit­ton crafts­man­ship avail­able to him. Prints were laser-etched onto shaved shear­ling, tweeds and cash­mere were over­laid with pat­terns, and corks were used as em­broi­dery. Jones also re­cruited long-time Nemeth col­lab­o­ra­tor Judy Blame to come up with the jew­ellery – an as­sort­ment of but­tons, pins, and charms that had an ar­ti­sanal but punk­ish DIY feel.

Louis Vuit­ton has a rich her­itage of work­ing suc­cess­fully with artists, so it was smart of Jones to con­tinue in that vein. It still felt like a Kim Jones col­lec­tion thanks to the fresh­ness of the styling, the at­ten­tion to de­tail, the lux­ury of the con­struc­tion, and the in­stant com­mer­cial­ity of ev­ery piece.

Back­pack, Louis Vuit­ton

Leather bag and boots from Louis Vuit­ton Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’15 Back­stage at Louis Vuit­ton Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’15

Back­stage at Louis Vuit­ton Au­tumn/ Win­ter ’15

Ac ce ss o ri e s b y J u d y B l a m e f o r L o ui s 15 Vu ’r itt nte on


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