JUNGLE BOOK Powerful and elusive; mysterious and beautiful. Charmaine Ho looks at the world of Cartier’s Panthère, brought to life through the intricate crafts of Métiers d’Art.
Rotonde de Cartier watch with damascened
panther motif L AYERED E F FECT Showcasing the art of damascening – the inlaying of precious metals onto a metal surface – this timepiece has white, yellow, and rose gold wires hammered
into its gold dial for a 3D effect. Black lacquer marks the panther’s spots. Panther clip brooch (1949) with a 152.35- carat Kashmir sapphire cabochon J E ANNE TOUSSAI NT
A muse to poets, musicians, and artists alike, Jeanne Toussaint advised
well-heeled Cartier clients such as the Duchess of Windsor and Barbara
Hutton on matters of style. She is also the person who further infused Cartier’s jewellery collections with
animal inspirations. From Cartier’s new Maison des Métiers d’Art comes a stunning timepiece: the Ronde Louis Cartier filigree watch with delicate lacework created through beaten gold and platinum micro-wires. More than a month of work and a host of specially designed tools were needed to produce this piece. Jeanne Toussaint in the ’30s Watercolour drawing of a Panthère de Cartier design The panther’s first appearance under a Cartier guise occurred in 1914, thanks to Jeanne Toussaint, the brand’s
creative director of jewellery. Nicknamed “the panther,” she is the storyteller who spurred the Panthère legend with her finely honed creative eye.
Design drawing for a brooch with two panther heads
Design drawing of the Panther brooch (right)
Cartier d’Art Ronde Louis Cartier filigree panthers décor watch
Steady hands are required
The lace-like filigree comprises multiple components