REBEL CALL Beauty goes back to black and edgy piercings to celebrate the spirit of punk. By Li Ying Lim.
Haider Ackermann Autumn/ Winter ’15
The Clash. The Ramones. Sex Pistols. Punk rock was the beating heart of the fashion movement that symbolised a rebellion against the establishment, and anything conventional. When it came to punk fashion, London was at the very eye of the storm. Vivienne Westwood burst into the scene in the ’70s with partnerin-crime Malcolm McLaren, making drainpipe jeans cool and ripping up bondage, S&M designs to churn out statement pieces. But more often than not, musicians and working-class boys with DIY fashion pieces and accompanying piercings, shaved heads and Mohawks, defined that era with Dr Martens boots, gas-station jumpsuits, and mutilated leather jackets – a phenomenon simply born out of defiance. The original brand of punk continued to transmogrify through the times. This autumn, the runways veered towards that trademark insolence and individualism. Brit-cool make-up mogul Alex Box nods to this storied subculture of the city, saying, “There is a rebellion this season that makes make-up feel really alive.” While the colour black inevitably took centre stage in homage to this trend, there was a defiance in its application this season – oil-slick black migrated south to the lips as seen at Giles, Mohawks were tinged with pink, and ’80s punk nails were jazzed up with glitter.
Head manicurist of Sibling Autumn/Winter ’15, Katie Jane Hawkins (who is also the global colour ambassador of Butter London), did up the models’ nails in what looked like ’80s lurex, sequins, and glitter. Inspired by the collection and subverting what would have been expected of punk (read – gothic, dark) nails, Hawkins says, “They kind of look a little bit UFO-ish so it’s all a bit spacey and rock ’n’ roll at the same time.”
In the mood for ’80s punk as well was Sibling’s lead hairstylist Sid Hayes, who was in turn inspired by Sid Vicious of Sex Pistols. “We wanted it to be really fun,” he grins. “We’ve used the crimpers and brand new BaByliss hairdryer to create a really fun texture. For the lace-
Preen Autumn/ Winter ’15