ECLIPSE OF THE MOON

From face ac­ces­sories to state­ment makeup, readi­ness to em­brace in­di­vid­u­al­ity has given way to du­al­ity on the run­way. By Li Ying Lim.

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - The Beauty Bazaar -

Chanel Le Ver­nis Nail Colour in Rouge Noir, RM88

One show, two looks—or more— was the or­der of the day this sea­son. Most no­tice­able at the New York City-held Givenchy show, a sub­di­vide of mod­els emerged clad in pearls and lace masks; a fac­tion in metal studs and dia­manté face pierc­ings, and an­other with faces com­pletely stripped of em­bel­lish­ments, with sim­ple breath­able skin and beau­ti­ful make-up to show. “Ethe­real and fierce,” de­scribes beauty guru and back­stage peren­nial Pat McGrath of the two kinds of ac­ces­sorised faces she cre­ated for Givenchy’s Spring/Sum­mer ’16 show. De­signed in part to ser­e­nade Ric­cardo Tisci’s love for de­cals and face ac­ces­sories, McGrath’s vi­sion­ary beau­ties were as she de­scribes them to be—ethe­real in the form of white face laces and pearls, fierce in the stee­li­ness of golden ap­pliqués, crys­tal wreaths, and spiked war­rior masks. Held at Ground Zero, where haunt­ing chords of “Ave Maria” played in com­mem­o­ra­tion of the an­niver­sary of 9/11, the show was, in Tisci’s words, “a cel­e­bra­tion ... of dif­fer­ent re­li­gions and all peo­ple.”

DARK MA­TE­RI­ALS

At Léa Peckre, mod­els wore lower lip pierc­ings that added a real cool fac­tor to an other­wise qui­etly glow­ing com­plex­ion. Res­i­dent make-up artist Bal­tasar González Pinel talks about be­ing “in­spired by the movie Dune ... raw and re­fined high­lighted skin, yet matte through the cen­tre.”

“It’s about look­ing like the coolest ver­sion of your­self. It’s all about the vibe,” de­scribes make-up artist Gor­don Espinet of this trend, or more ap­pro­pri­ately put, per­son­al­i­sa­tion. “This cus­tomi­sa­tion of make-up is com­pletely re­lated to the fact that the fash­ion in­dus­try’s rep­re­sen­ta­tion of beauty has moved for­ward in leaps and bounds, letting go of ar­chaic stan­dards and em­brac­ing ev­ery skin tone and eth­nic­ity.”

Diane Ken­dal also em­braced the raw­ness back­stage at Alexan­dern­der Wang. Like a pro, she made sure the rough and tough vibe came through the mod­els’ best fea­tures, sim­ply by leav­ing it to their unique beauty. Pierc­ings stayed in, Laura Mercier Velour Lovers Lip Colour in An Af­fair, RM129

Face de­cals and di­a­mond studs ren­dered both soft­ness and hard­ness at Givenchy Spring/ Sum­mer ’16

A strong core re­mained, even with beau­ti­ful make-up, as seen at Givenchy Spring/ Sum­mer ’16

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