TWIST IT

From ar­chi­tec­ture-in­spired dishes to part-time veg­e­tar­i­an­ism, BAZAAR bites into sum­mer’s palate of in­dul­gence.

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - The Fashionable Life Bazaar -

A new wave of veg­e­tar­i­an­ism is in­vad­ing some of Aus­tralia’s best menus. By El­iza O’Hare. When Brent Sav­age and Nick Hilde­brandt’s cel­e­brated Syd­ney restau­rant Yel­low switched its menu to a com­pletely veg­e­tar­ian one ear­lier this year, it sig­nalled a shift in fine din­ing; the ele­gant art of eat­ing all of your greens—with matched wines, of course. Gone are gritty veg­gie dishes in grimy sur­rounds; this move­ment is all about pair­ing heir­loom baby en­dive with Veuve Clic­quot in chic in­te­ri­ors. Green ap­pre­ci­a­tion has been a long time com­ing, with chefs such as Yo­tam Ot­tolenghi lead­ing the way with his best­selling veg­e­tar­ian cook­books Plenty, re­leased back in 2010, and Plenty More, from 2014. But you know it’s a real thing when Alain Du­casse’s Paris restau­rant in the Hô­tel Plaza Athénée side­steps meat dishes for a greater fo­cus on grains, fish, and veg­eta­bles. While not ev­ery­one wants to com­mit to of­fer­ing a fully green menu, there’s a greater per­cent­age of se­ri­ous restau­rants in­tro­duc­ing big-flavoured veg­e­tar­ian dishes. Af­ter all, the new (part-time) veg­e­tar­ian is also a flavour seeker. It could be a con­tro­ver­sial move, but Chef Sav­age says Yel­low has al­ways had a fo­cus on veg­eta­bles. “Our veg­e­tar­ian and ve­gan menus have grown in­creas­ingly pop­u­lar at all three restau­rants [Yel­low, Bent­ley, and Monopole, all in Syd­ney], so it felt like a nat­u­ral pro­gres­sion,” he ex­plains. “The re­sponse to the new menu has been re­ally pos­i­tive, but the parsnip ‘pap­pardelle’ is def­i­nitely a con­tender for our best­seller.” For his new Syd­ney restau­rant, No. 1 Bent Street, Chef Mike McEn­ear­ney of Kitchen by Mike is com­mit­ting to more green dishes. “I love veg­eta­bles; if I was only al­lowed to eat one food group for the rest of my life, it would be veg­eta­bles,” he says. “There’s so much di­ver­sity and great flavour. They formed the bulk of my dishes at KBM [Kitchen by Mike] and will cer­tainly fea­ture heav­ily at No 1. Bent Street.” Adding kick to the green din­ing ex­pe­ri­ence is juice pair­ing. At Sil­ver­eye in Syd­ney, man­ager/som­me­lier James Au­das says din­ers are em­brac­ing be­spoke matched fruit-and-veg­etable juices. “There are def­i­nitely favourites, like the rose kom­bucha and rasp­berry matched with beet­root dishes, or the ap­ple, beet­root, and dried lemon myr­tle matched with ox­tail.” Sounds like the time is

ripe to cel­e­brate your veg­e­tar­ian lean­ings.

MAG­A­ZINE WOR­THY

Li Ying Lim speaks to Emmanuel Eger, head chef of The Mag­a­zine at Seck­ler Ser­pen­tine Gallery, about his ever-cre­ative menus. How does the restau­rant and sur­round­ing ar­chi­tec­ture in­flu­ence the menu? We have an open kitchen with a ro­bata char­coal grill, and the menu is as­sem­bled around it, with guests walk­ing around the kitchen to see the cook­ing in ac­tion. The food is con­tem­po­rary in style, pre­sent­ing bold yet bal­anced flavours. To­gether with Zaha Ha­did Ar­chi­tects, we se­lected Kahla curved plates to com­ple­ment the room’s lin­eations and bring the food to life. Lo­cated at the Ser­pen­tine Sack­ler Gallery, one can’t help but be in­spired. Ex­hi­bi­tions change four times per year, and we also col­lab­o­rate with artists on our menus. We also re­cently re­ceived sculp­tures and mu­rals for dis­play pur­poses. This cre­ates an im­mer­sive ex­pe­ri­ence for guests. When cre­at­ing a menu, how do you get to the mo­ment where you just know, “this is it”? I usu­ally try to un­der­stand what our cus­tomers like to eat. Pop­u­lar dishes say a lot about how they would like our menus struc­tured. I al­ways vi­su­alise new dishes in my head, then I jot down my ideas and test the recipes with the team—it en­gages them and helps their cre­ative devel­op­ment. I have a “this is it” mo­ment when I fol­low my in­stinct even when a recipe does not sound per­fect on pa­per. Per­sis­tence is key and the re­ward is in the fi­nal dish. What makes you a happy chef? Hon­esty, team­work, and a happy cus­tomer! www.mag­a­zine-restau­rant.co.uk

Kitchen by Mike’s wa­ter­melon, tomato, and haloumi salad

Sam Miller’s sun­flower and gera­nium crisp­bread

Sil­ver­eye ex­ec­u­tive chef, Sam Miller

Mike McEn­ear­ney

Head chef, Emmanuel Eger

Beet­root

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