BAZAAR maps out the genius mind of Lucia Pica with a mood board. By Avril Mair.
wanted to start with the simple concept of one colour,” says Lucia Pica of her debut Le Rouge collection, in stores this month. The 40-year-old is now responsible for creating all of Chanel’s cosmetics, including four seasonal collections a year. “I’m obsessed with red—and of course, red is an iconic shade for Chanel. Mademoiselle used to say, ‘Put on your red lipstick and attack!’” Launched in 1924, Chanel’s rouge has never been out of fashion or production, but the possibilities of this colour of extremes hadn’t been explored until now. “It was very much about celebrating and subverting the classic,” says Pica. “So: the real and radical, the wearable and the bold, in terms of textures, in terms of pigments, in terms of transformations when worn.” Alongside perfect nail polishes, glosses, blushes, and lipsticks, the collection also contains the red eye make-up first seen at Cannes this spring on the actress Kristen Stewart, the fiercely unconventional face of the collection. “Coco Chanel was so avantgarde in the way she thought,” Pica says. “She just did what she felt; she was so instinctive. I realised that I needed to take that as my inspiration.”
“I’d always been mesmerised by make-up, but I just didn’t think that I could have a career in it; I never knew that there was such a thing.” However, a summer trip to the UK changed everything: “Coming from Italy, which is more conservative, there seemed to be such freedom of expression here that was very attractive to me. London felt like a place of infinite possibility.” In 1999, she moved over; a one-month make-up course led to odd jobs in film, then persistence gained her an assistant’s role with Charlotte Tilbury. Five years later— well-liked in the industry, warm and articulate, with a clearly defined vision—Pica set out on her own. Within a decade, she had won global recognition. “I don’t believe in perfection so much,” she says. “It’s about an attitude.”
Behind-thescenes at the Le Rouge campaign shoot with Kristen Stewart
Inspiration for Lucia Pica’s debut collection
Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet in Rouge Charnel