BAZAAR maps out the ge­nius mind of Lu­cia Pica with a mood board. By Avril Mair.

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - Beauty -

wanted to start with the sim­ple con­cept of one colour,” says Lu­cia Pica of her de­but Le Rouge col­lec­tion, in stores this month. The 40-year-old is now re­spon­si­ble for creat­ing all of Chanel’s cos­met­ics, in­clud­ing four sea­sonal col­lec­tions a year. “I’m ob­sessed with red—and of course, red is an iconic shade for Chanel. Made­moi­selle used to say, ‘Put on your red lip­stick and at­tack!’” Launched in 1924, Chanel’s rouge has never been out of fash­ion or pro­duc­tion, but the pos­si­bil­i­ties of this colour of ex­tremes hadn’t been ex­plored un­til now. “It was very much about cel­e­brat­ing and sub­vert­ing the clas­sic,” says Pica. “So: the real and rad­i­cal, the wear­able and the bold, in terms of tex­tures, in terms of pig­ments, in terms of trans­for­ma­tions when worn.” Along­side per­fect nail pol­ishes, glosses, blushes, and lip­sticks, the col­lec­tion also con­tains the red eye make-up first seen at Cannes this spring on the ac­tress Kris­ten Ste­wart, the fiercely un­con­ven­tional face of the col­lec­tion. “Coco Chanel was so avant­garde in the way she thought,” Pica says. “She just did what she felt; she was so in­stinc­tive. I re­alised that I needed to take that as my in­spi­ra­tion.”

“I’d al­ways been mes­merised by make-up, but I just didn’t think that I could have a ca­reer in it; I never knew that there was such a thing.” How­ever, a sum­mer trip to the UK changed ev­ery­thing: “Com­ing from Italy, which is more con­ser­va­tive, there seemed to be such free­dom of ex­pres­sion here that was very at­trac­tive to me. Lon­don felt like a place of in­fi­nite pos­si­bil­ity.” In 1999, she moved over; a one-month make-up course led to odd jobs in film, then per­sis­tence gained her an as­sis­tant’s role with Char­lotte Til­bury. Five years later— well-liked in the in­dus­try, warm and ar­tic­u­late, with a clearly de­fined vi­sion—Pica set out on her own. Within a decade, she had won global recog­ni­tion. “I don’t be­lieve in per­fec­tion so much,” she says. “It’s about an at­ti­tude.”

Be­hind-thescenes at the Le Rouge cam­paign shoot with Kris­ten Ste­wart

In­spi­ra­tion for Lu­cia Pica’s de­but col­lec­tion

Chanel Rouge Al­lure Vel­vet in Rouge Char­nel

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