THE SAINT COMES MARCH­ING IN

Now in his sopho­more sea­son at Saint Laurent, An­thony Vac­carello proves that tak­ing the lead at the sto­ried mai­son isn’t just about ref­er­ence: it’s about rev­er­ence. Here, Amy Yas­mine draws com­par­isons be­tween the leg­end, and fash­ion’s very own agent provo

Harper’s Bazaar (Malaysia) - - The News - dou­ble-rune in­signia of the SS

On January 29, 1971, Yves Saint Laurent’s Spring/ Sum­mer col­lec­tion caused so much of an up­roar. It was also given the name ‘Scan­dal’, and quite fit­tingly so. At a time when fu­tur­ism (see: Cour­règes and Paco Ra­banne) was a fan­tasy out­let from France’s tu­mul­tuous Nazi oc­cu­pa­tion, ref­er­enc­ing the ’40s was con­sid­ered “bad taste”. Sin­u­ous waists, vo­lu­mi­nous skirts, and plung­ing neck­lines were all that de­fined the decade, and for Mon­sieur Laurent’s 1971 col­lec­tion, its at­tach­ment to such a con­tro­ver­sial pe­riod cer­tainly didn’t fare well with his peers. “For years, the eye was used to a boy­ish girl with­out breasts, waist, or hips. I never thought the ap­pear­ance of a true woman would pro­voke such a scan­dal,” said the de­signer to The New York Times that year. Of course, Saint Laurent is no stranger to break­ing the rules, and as far as mod­ern times go, nei­ther is present creative direc­tor An­thony Vac­carello. Count­ing that same col­lec­tion as the start­ing point for his lat­est Au­tumn/Winter ’17 col­lec­tion, the suc­ces­sor to Hedi Sli­mane’s rocker-girl aes­thetic dove deep into the ar­chives, bor­der­ing on the sub­ver­sive and per­verse for his sopho­more col­lec­tion. For those un­fa­mil­iar with Vac­carello’s own line of work, per­ver­sion is a lex­i­con much ex­plored by the ItaloBel­gian de­signer. Take for ex­am­ple a slashed-up evening gown from his Spring/Sum­mer ’12 col­lec­tion; with slits raised so high, you’d fear it’d give way to some­thing more PG18 than ex­pected (it even­tu­ally graced US BAZAAR’s 2012 March cover, worn by Gwyneth Pal­trow). In more re­cent times, Vac­carello’s Au­tumn/Winter ’17 cam­paign for the mai­son, shot by Inez & Vi­noodh, sees mod­els Fer­nanda Oliveira and Hian­dra Martinez pos­ing

The Italo-Bel­gian An­thony Vac­carello at his sopho­more col­lec­tion for Saint Laurent Saint Laurent Au­tumn/Winter ’17 A look in­spired by Yves Saint Laurent’s Au­tumn/Winter ’63 ‘Robin Hood’ col­lec­tion on the run­way

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