In 1922, Jean Cocteau delved into the origin of ancient mythology with his staging of Antigone, a play where the writer himself entrusted costumes to Gabrielle Chanel. Not only did this crossing of paths inspire Karl Lagerfeld for his latest Cruise collection, Mademoiselle Chanel’s love of antiquities—as evident by her marble Venus tucked away in her Rue Cambon apartment—did, too. “My scissors are not those of Praxiteles,” Mademoiselle Chanel once declared. “But nonetheless, I sculpt my pattern more than I draw it.” And so sculpt, Lagerfeld did. Spurred on by his admiration of Minoan civilisation, soft jerseys (another Chanel hallmark) were draped into breezy playsuits, or thighbaring toga dresses, embellished ever so slightly with gilded camellias. The iconic tweed was turned into an embellished chest plate, worn with pleated kilts and gladiator boots (a modern-day Grecian warrior, perhaps?). As always, every little detail counts when it comes to Chanel’s skilled artisans. Look closely and you’ll notice ancient coins disguised as buttons, metal laurel leaf paillettes crafted into neckpieces, or intricate knitwear with pottery reliefs. Forget Antigone—this season, Chanel gave antiquities a new gold standard.