For those with expensive epicurean tastes, Lafite is both a pioneer and an old friend. Luxurious without being ostentatious, it is as good for a romantic dinner as it is for a family reunion.
There have been changes over the years. No more French provincialism; now there is a surfeit of Intercontinental cool.
Adventurers who feel like heading off the beaten track will be rewarded, especially with the three- and six-course degustation menus. Those who feel like spending a little less will need to do so at lunch, when the set meals provide a superb introduction to the glories of French gastronomy. Sticking to the a la carte menu offers more choices and many surprises. Lobster, for example, is transformed from a luxury cop-out to a manifestation of sweet firm flesh topped with bisque and paired with delicate foie gras ravioli.