Sao Nam has been practising the same dishes for long enough to get them exactly right. Thankfully, it has also retained its raffish charm and affordable prices over the years.
Vietnamese still isn’t quite the rage in Malaysia although it has conquered much of the Western world. Perhaps the tastes are too subtle for an audience inured to chilli padi and belachan.
The signature dishes never really change, and why should they, when they represent the full taste spectrum of the genre? The perennial mangosteen salad is a delightful medley of flavours with the challenge of having to get it in the right season. A more fragrant dish such as the pho tantalises with its spices and tender beef, while the duck with orange sauce is as francophile as one is going to get. Desserts, too, have a French touch. Where else can one get a crème caramel these days?