Thai-tanic Aspirations
Briefly in town for the St Regis Kuala Lumpur’s Guest Star Chef Series, Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn has swayed Samantha Lim into making advance reservations at Le Du, Bangkok
Chef Thitid of Le Du explains how he transforms Thai cuisine into French perfection
In order to understand Thithid’s headspace, simply scrutinise his three biggest passions, golf, scuba diving plus cooking, and their similarities. “In golf, harbouring any paranoia of hitting your ball into the water can cause that same fear to materialise,” said the 33-year-old. “You’re fighting against your worst enemy—yourself. Scuba diving and cooking are the same. I am aware of and act upon my own intentions.” Though curious about goings-on in the culinary industry, he steers clear of external influences where possible. “That way, I can truly stay original,” concluded the chef, whose steadfast ways has garnered the respect of the culinary world. Awarded 14th place in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, Le Du rose by 23 spots between 2017 and 2018—a feat as uncommon as authentic pad thai in France. Jovial and quick to joke about himself, Thithid gave us a better understanding about elevating Thai cuisine to French fine dining standards.
I heard that it was your grandmother who inspired you to cook. Was she from your mum’s or dad’s side?
My mum’s mum, she always had a meal ready for us after school, and my love of food was forged then. It was often eggs with five-spices and pickled vegetables topped with pork.
You took that passion further by enrolling at the Culinary Institute of America in New York City. Did you experience any culture shock?
New Yorkers are very…
Crazy?
Crazy! And friendly in their own way. I knew that I wanted to cook Thai food, but I needed to know why French food is deemed one of the best cuisines in the world. That’s why I went to The Big Apple. *Note: No short of impressive, chef Thitid’s resume includes stints at Eleven Madison Park, The Modern, and Jean Georges.
Did you find your answer?
The thing that elevates French cuisine above others is a certain mindset and the pursuit of perfection. It’s what makes the difference between one-, two-, and three-michelin-star establishments. Dishes at these restaurants are as good as the next; I’ve eaten at them all. At
the end, it all comes down to fine details and determination.
This determination is clearly inherent in yourself. When you returned to Bangkok in 2013, you knew exactly what you had to do.
Yes, and that was to start my own restaurant, Le Du.
What was the first dish you put on the menu?
The seabass with a granita made from chillies and cilantro. A kind of ceviche, except Thai.
If Massimo Bottura quoted, “There is balsamic in my blood and my bones are fortified by Parmigiana,” what ingredients make up the Thai DNA?
Palm sugar and shrimp paste! Most Thai recipes will use a little of either or both, here and there. The reason why Thai food outside Thailand doesn’t taste as good is because chefs abroad lack quality shrimp paste there. Like balsamic and cheese in Italian cuisine, without good shrimp paste, there is no authentic Thai food.
How can I replicate your Smoked Coconut Ice Cream—don’t you need a specific candle?
Yes, you do! If you visit Bangkok, I will give you one.
You also need specific wood and dried flowers. There are several recipes for smoked desserts, all rooted in Royal Palace cooking. After contacting an old chef at the palace, I adopted her recipe.
Not all chefs our age think to reach out to their elders.
If you want to make modern Thai cuisine but know little about the classics, there would be no point—you’d be lost. And people will sense this when they taste your food.
When I sampled your menu I thought, “What remarkably humble fine dining—two words that don’t often go hand-in-hand.”
In Southeast Asia, we use similar ingredients in different combinations, so it is natural to make connections through food. Nevertheless, my cooking has personal inflections, as I’m not trying to be anyone else.