Good food with at­mos­phere

New Straits Times - - Jom! -

FROM Kuala Se­lan­gor, I travel north across the Sul­tan Salahud­din Ab­dul Aziz Shah Bridge to Pasir Pe­nam­bang. Be­fore the bridge was built, mo­torists had to cross the Se­lan­gor River by ferry to get to this fish­ing vil­lage.

With the bridge, Pasir Pe­nam­bang and Ba­gan Sungei Yu saw a boom in seafood restau­rants. I turn left into Jalan Feri Lama. Fur­ther ahead, I pass Fish Vil­lage Ori­en­tal Thai Seafood, Makanan Laut Ah Chui, Kedai Makanan Laut Mei Wei and Restoran Tian Wai Tian.

These restau­rants are sit­u­ated on land so I give them a pass as seafood is best eaten in a restau­rant on stilts where one can en­joy the the breezeze from the sea or river. For me, it en­hances­the din­ing ex­pe­ri­ence.

Min­utes later, I park my car out­side Satu Enam La­pan Lok Siew Moy, a store sell­ing dried seafood. I then cross the road to Jeti Seafood Restau­rant. On its plank board­walk, I take long strides past con­tain­ers filled with fish and a white­board hang­ing on a wall list­ing the prices of seafood.

As I set­tle my­self at a table, I feel the vi­bra­tion of a nearby oxy­gen pump on the floor as it de­liv­ers air to the fish con­tain­ers.

ASEAOFFOOD

Al­most 100 dishes are listed on the menu and pi­geon-holed into veg­etable, chicken, bean­curd, cockle, oys­ter, fish maw, scal­lop, fried noo­dles, man­tis prawn, lala, squid and bam­boo clam.

For fish, the choices range from pom­fret, cat­fish, but­ter­fish and snap­per to grouper and stingray.

Assam pom­fret makes a great ap­pe­tizer.

Styles of cook­ing in­clude steamed, sweet and sour, deep-fried, Szechuan steamed, assam steamed, Teochew style steamed and Ny­onya style siz­zling.

I or­der five dishes. Milk Chi­nese cab­bage soup, which re­quires a short cook­ing time, is served first. The use of wolf­berry seeds adds fresh sweet­ness to the soup and com­ple­ments the crunchy veg­gies.

The first slurp of my crab por­ridge plus its fresh aroma make me give it a two-claw ver­dict — it’s a must-try.

Assam pom­fret ar­rives next. The fish is half-sub­merged in rust-coloured gravy and ac­com­pa­nied by pieces of white tofu.

The ap­petis­ing full-flavoured gravy is tinged with onion, tomato and shrimp and bal­anced with lemon grass, gar­lic and gin­ger. The pom­fret is not fishy and the sour­ish tang of the broth as­serts it­self.

Next comes man­tis prawns fried with salted egg. The crus­taceans taste like they’ve been fried in a bat­ter of car­bonara sauce mi­nus the cheesy aroma but with a hint of salti­ness. Deep-fried scal­lop shows up last, and they are pre­sented in their shells.

My teeth sinks through a crispy layer of fried bat­ter and the soft marsh­mal­low-like tex­ture of the fresh scal­lops — al­most all at once. This play of con­trast­ing tex­tures de­liver an in­trigu­ing mouth-feel, not to men­tion the glob of savoury sauce adding juici­ness to the scal­lops.

Man­tis prawns are less meaty then reg­u­lar prawns.

A re­fresh­ing soup. Lot T26, Jalan Pasir Pe­nam­bang, Kuala Se­lan­gor

03-3289 2917 / 017-349 7713

11 am to 10 pm. Closed on Tues­day.

Seafood

Assam steamed pom­fret, crab por­ridge and deep-fried scal­lop

From RM12 to RM50 and above per seafood dish

Breezy and fairly noisy at­ti­tudeFast and with a ca­sual

Must-try

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