Good food with atmosphere
FROM Kuala Selangor, I travel north across the Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah Bridge to Pasir Penambang. Before the bridge was built, motorists had to cross the Selangor River by ferry to get to this fishing village.
With the bridge, Pasir Penambang and Bagan Sungei Yu saw a boom in seafood restaurants. I turn left into Jalan Feri Lama. Further ahead, I pass Fish Village Oriental Thai Seafood, Makanan Laut Ah Chui, Kedai Makanan Laut Mei Wei and Restoran Tian Wai Tian.
These restaurants are situated on land so I give them a pass as seafood is best eaten in a restaurant on stilts where one can enjoy the the breezeze from the sea or river. For me, it enhancesthe dining experience.
Minutes later, I park my car outside Satu Enam Lapan Lok Siew Moy, a store selling dried seafood. I then cross the road to Jeti Seafood Restaurant. On its plank boardwalk, I take long strides past containers filled with fish and a whiteboard hanging on a wall listing the prices of seafood.
As I settle myself at a table, I feel the vibration of a nearby oxygen pump on the floor as it delivers air to the fish containers.
Almost 100 dishes are listed on the menu and pigeon-holed into vegetable, chicken, beancurd, cockle, oyster, fish maw, scallop, fried noodles, mantis prawn, lala, squid and bamboo clam.
For fish, the choices range from pomfret, catfish, butterfish and snapper to grouper and stingray.
Assam pomfret makes a great appetizer.
Styles of cooking include steamed, sweet and sour, deep-fried, Szechuan steamed, assam steamed, Teochew style steamed and Nyonya style sizzling.
I order five dishes. Milk Chinese cabbage soup, which requires a short cooking time, is served first. The use of wolfberry seeds adds fresh sweetness to the soup and complements the crunchy veggies.
The first slurp of my crab porridge plus its fresh aroma make me give it a two-claw verdict — it’s a must-try.
Assam pomfret arrives next. The fish is half-submerged in rust-coloured gravy and accompanied by pieces of white tofu.
The appetising full-flavoured gravy is tinged with onion, tomato and shrimp and balanced with lemon grass, garlic and ginger. The pomfret is not fishy and the sourish tang of the broth asserts itself.
Next comes mantis prawns fried with salted egg. The crustaceans taste like they’ve been fried in a batter of carbonara sauce minus the cheesy aroma but with a hint of saltiness. Deep-fried scallop shows up last, and they are presented in their shells.
My teeth sinks through a crispy layer of fried batter and the soft marshmallow-like texture of the fresh scallops — almost all at once. This play of contrasting textures deliver an intriguing mouth-feel, not to mention the glob of savoury sauce adding juiciness to the scallops.
Mantis prawns are less meaty then regular prawns.
A refreshing soup. Lot T26, Jalan Pasir Penambang, Kuala Selangor
03-3289 2917 / 017-349 7713
11 am to 10 pm. Closed on Tuesday.
Assam steamed pomfret, crab porridge and deep-fried scallop
From RM12 to RM50 and above per seafood dish
Breezy and fairly noisy attitudeFast and with a casual