Food For Thought

De­fine: food’s pri­vate din­ing con­cept of­fers be­spoke menus that rein­ter­pret fine cui­sine.

Robb Report (Malaysia) - - Contents - Pho­tos LAW SOO PHYE

De­fine: food’s pri­vate din­ing and be­spoke menus be­come the culi­nary play­ground for the imag­i­na­tive chef Mal­colm Goh, who merges in­gre­di­ents with panache for mem­o­rable meals.

A t newly launched De­fine: food – so named to de­scribe its hon­est ap­proach to c ui­sine - i n M idVal­ley City, the idea of a cus­tomised din­ner menu is taken to new heights by its in­ven­tive chef Mal­colm Goh. He honed his culi­nary skills at five-star ho­tel restau­rants be­fore tak­ing on a se­ries of cook­ing com­pe­ti­tions in­clud­ing a dou­ble-medal win­ning ef­fort at the Culi­nary Olympics in Ger­many. He has also ap­pared on Asian Food Chan­nel’s Back to The Streets and Great Din­ners of The World.

The whiz chef ap­proaches his be­spoke menus with a blend of imag­i­na­tion and ex­e­cu­tion be­fore serv­ing them on stone plate­ware, cus­tom-made at an ate­lier in Malacca. “Ev­ery step in cook­ing is quite straight­for­ward – the chal­lenge is when you have to co­or­di­nate 47 steps in or­der to pro­duce one per­fect dish,” he says. Goh’s self-ex­plana­tory Trib­ute to our Ocean be­spoke menu (RM300 per per­son) be­gins with an amuse­bouche of Fin de Claire oys­ters served on a bed of wood and dry ice. The com­bi­na­tion of basil jello and hot sauce melds into the raw taste of sea and shell – with a sub­tle af­ter­taste of tomato ex­tract. A first en­tree of Hokkaido scal­lop with sam­bal puree, crispy kalian floss and clam gel is a med­ley of tastes and tex­tures.

The sec­ond en­tree, an air-flown Brit­tany blue lob­ster har kaw and c law w ith squid ink puff sago, of­fers a sim­i­larly Euro­pean­meets-asian twist. Served with a gen­er­ous help­ing of bisque, this dish con­fers fresh­ness of in­gre­di­ents in ev­ery bite.

The plat prin­ci­ple con­sists of Ike Jime Grouper – a Ja­panese-style of en­sur­ing fresh­ness in the fish’s prepa­ra­tion – to­gether with umami beurre blanc, veg­eta­bles and a pomme souf­fle of Jerusalem ar­ti­chokes. The ten­der, suc­cu­lent fish con­trasts well with juicy, crunchy car­rots caramelised at its tips. A dessert of choco­late souf­fle of­fers in­trigu­ing hints of Mal­don sea salt and a sur­pris­ing side of black pep­per-ac­cented straw­berry sor­bet. Goh’s be­spoke menus are avail­able on re­quest. www.face­book.com/de­fine.food Ž

The ten­der, suc­cu­lent fish con­trasts well with juicy, crunchy car­rots caramelised at its tips.

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De­fine Food’s menu is in­flu­enced by the street food stalls on Gur­ney Drive and fine-din­ing es­tab­lish­ments in the heart of Kuala Lumpur.

Chef Mal­colm Goh (in­set) uses a com­bi­na­tion of clas­sic and mod­ern cook­ing tech­niques to show­case and en­hance nat­u­ral flavours.

Com­fort food at its best.

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