Robb Report (Malaysia)

Penang’s Culinary Hotbed

The fine-dining scene heats up in the north with firm favourites and rising stars offering plenty for sophistica­ted palates.

- By MARK LEAN AND KENNETH TAN Photos LAW SOO PHYE

Experience a slew of old and new favourites, replete with world-class culinary talents who are concocting a delicious fine dining scene.

The varying forms of doneness creates a different tasting experience.

FARQUHAR MANSION

Along George Town’s stylish colonial stretch, just across the Eastern & Oriental Hotel, is Farquhar Mansion. Operating as a lounge and a French restaurant, the refurbishe­d mansion has become the de facto destinatio­n for well-heeled Penangites looking to celebrate anniversar­ies, birthdays and significan­t life events.

From the lilting, soulful crooning of Edith Piaf to the classical interior design, there’s no doubt of its Gallic inspiratio­n, while culinary efforts are helmed by its Frenchtrai­ned executive chef Tan DR. The kitchen practises a five-point cooking philosophy that showcases textures, flavours, purity, terroir and classic origins of ingredient­s, most prominentl­y across a five-course tasting menu (RM368+). On this menu, staples include a moreish starter of a Mushroom Garden Terroir composed of sauteed portobello, shimeji, micro herbs, edible flowers and gratinated Bearnaise liberally accented with black truffle.

Meanwhile, its Trio of Hokkaido Scallops comprises a basil- dusted scallop tartare, flambeed scallop anointed with wasabi and ikura, and another that is seared and garnished with pesto. The varying forms of doneness creates a different tasting experience, from a chewy mouthfeel to crispy toothsome. An ensuing half-seared foie gras is attended by a port wine emulsion, alfalfa, orange brioche and apple chutney.

A 12-hour reduction of beef stock

produces a lovely jus, which is served with the Wagyu main course with the right balance of char and beefiness when plated at the recommende­d medium doneness.

To match your steak, Farquhar Mansion’s wine list is composed of the many important French viticultur­e appellatio­ns including Bordeaux’s left and right bank, Rhone and Burgundy, all of which is poured into Riedel glassware. You may easily select a Pauillac, Margaux or Pomerol from its extensive list, while whisky lovers will find aged highlights in the form of 25-year- old Hakushus, Laphroaigs and Bowmores, among others.

To round things off, mango cheese foam is paired with panna cotta, compote, sorbet, almond cake, crisps and coconut foam for a refreshing tang.

For post-dinner drinks, guests may retire to the lounge upstairs, which also boasts a magnificen­t Dalmore whisky cabinet stocked with aged expression­s of its single-malt scotch and with a live band in attendance.

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