CARTIER SAN­TOS

Robb Report (Malaysia) - - Sihh - March - 2018

The new San­tos de Cartier fuses its long his­tory with a touch of mod­ern func­tion­al­ity, main­tain­ing its ge­o­met­ri­cal square, re­call­ing Parisian ge­om­e­try at the turn of the 20th cen­tury (eg the four an­gu­lar cor­ners of the Eif­fel Tower). What has been re­worked are sleeker lines on the bezel, and multi-pur­pose straps equipped with the Cartier Quick­switch sys­tem en­abling users to swap steel or gold bracelets with calf­skin or al­li­ga­tor. A Smartlink self­fit­ting tech­nol­ogy al­lows for fur­ther ad­just­ment on strap length with­out the need for tools.

As a trib­ute to the Royal Oak Off­shore’s sil­ver an­niver­sary this year, Aude­mars Piguet en­vi­sions the fu­ture of this col­lec­tion with a no­holds barred ap­proach. The out­come is the Royal Oak Off­shore Tour­bil­lon Chrono­graph with its 45mm case – a first for this case size in the Off­shore col­lec­tion. Be­neath the sap­phire glass, an ar­chi­tec­tural re-imag­i­na­tion of time­piece me­chan­ics is man­i­fested through sand­blasted ti­ta­nium bridges, satin-brushed cham­fered edges and a move­ment seem­ingly sus­pended from the bezel. The pur­pose­ful use of space also op­ti­mises the amount of light pass­ing through the open­worked move­ment. This model is avail­able in a choice of stain­less steel or 18-carat pink gold – each lim­ited to 50 pieces. www.au­de­mar­spiguet.com

This year, the dream­like world of Van Cleef & Ar­pels sees the de­but of a pair of time­pieces which fully dis­plays the mai­son’s ex­per­tise in lap­idary. In Lady Ar­pels Nuit Feerique and Lady Ar­pels Jour Feerique, the in­ter­wo­ven themes of day and night, and of a fairy fig­ure quest­ing for the heav­ens, are beau­ti­fully em­bel­lished. Bring­ing these artis­tic and fan­tas­ti­cal no­tions to life are a com­bi­na­tion of gems and pre­cious met­als; white, yel­low and pink gold; di­a­monds; blue, pink, yel­low and mauve sap­phires; aven­turine; onyx; gar­nets; turquoise; enamel and moth­erof-pearl. www.van­clee­farpels.com

Vacheron Con­stantin rekin­dles that long­ing for the early days of ex­plo­ration through its Metier d’art Les Aerostiers col­lec­tion. A sump­tu­ous ren­di­tion of five hot- air bal­loon flights un­der­taken in France between 1783 and 1785 are brought to life with en­grav­ing, pounced or­na­ment and ex­quis­ite plique-a-jour enamel work in 40mm 18-carat gold pieces. Each hot-air bal­loon re­quires three weeks of craft­ing, while the translu­cent back­ground of enamel re­calls the tech­niques ap­plied on stained glass win­dows to pro­duce vary­ing, sub­tle shades. This col­lec­tion is pro­duced in a lim­ited run of five num­bered pieces per ref­er­ence.

The first Aude­mars Piguet watch with a fly­ing tour­bil­lon, this fu­tur­is­tic num­ber is high-tech on the in­side as well as out. Its sand­blasted ti­ta­nium case has a gen­tly curved pro­file and faceted an­gles plus a ver­ti­cally brushed black ceramic bezel com­pleted with the Aude­mars Piguet sig­na­ture hexag­o­nal screws.

Prof­fer­ing 237 hours of power re­serve and a 3Hz fre­quency (21,600vph), the move­ment con­sists of sand­blasted black ti­ta­nium bridges high­lighted by pink gold­toned pol­ished an­gles. Cal­i­bre 2954’s stun­ning ar­chi­tec­ture oc­cu­pies 9.9mm in height and fea­tures an HNR func­tion se­lec­tion in­di­ca­tor styled as a disc. Royal Oak Con­cept Fly­ing Tour­bil­lon GMT is a hefty time­piece but when you’re wear­ing an al­pha male watch like this one, sub­tlety is the last thing on your mind. www.au­de­mar­spiguet.com

Re­mem­ber the mind-bend­ingly thin Pi­aget Cal­i­bre 900P? It was the one that fused the bezel with the case, and then the case with the move­ment, so ev­ery­thing was just move­ment and sap­phire crys­tal.

Cur­rently the thinnest man­u­al­wind­ing watch in the world, it is just 3.65mm thin and now it is joined by the world’s thinnest au­to­matic watch, the Cal­i­bre 910P. The new ul­tra-thin model sits a lit­tle higher at 4.3mm and is slightly wider at 41mm in­stead of 38mm, but it brings some­thing new to the ta­ble: a pe­riph­eral

os­cil­lat­ing weight.

Barely thicker than the leather strap it’s fit­ted on, the Alti­plano Ul­ti­mate 910P’s case dou­bles up as the main plate and all 219 com­po­nents are as­sem­bled within those minute con­fines. Some of its gear wheels mea­sure just 0.12mm thick where or­di­nary ones can go up to 0.20mm.

In ad­di­tion the bar­rel is sus­pended by a sin­gle bridge on the dial side un­like cus­tom­ary bar­rels which are also fixed on the main plate, and it gets its 50-hour power re­serve from the 22- carat gold black PVD coated pe­riph­eral os­cil­lat­ing weight. An im­pres­sive feat, no doubt. int.pi­aget.com

Amod­ern in­ter­pre­ta­tion of two favourite clas­si­cal com­pli­ca­tions, the Minute Re­peater Tri-ax­ial Tour­bil­lon also keeps things in­ter­est­ing with a triple axis tour­bil­lon as op­posed to the stan­dard bridged va­ri­ety. Lit­er­ally pro­vid­ing song and dance, the chimes of the re­peater are met with the mes­meris­ing ro­ta­tions of the tour­bil­lon as it com­pletes one full turn ev­ery two min­utes for the out­er­most car­riage, one minute for the next and fi­nally 30 sec­onds for the in­ner­most one.

Ev­ery­thing that en­ables the watch to chime the time can be seen from the front as Gi­rardPer­re­gaux has dis­pensed with a con­ven­tional dial. Its gen­er­ous 48mm ti­ta­nium case al­lows for max­i­mum acous­tics, as do the two box-type sap­phire crys­tals on front and back, ma­chined with a bevel and glare-proofed for per­fect clar­ity. Ac­ti­vate the chimes through the slid­ing lever on the side of the case and lis­ten to the time in hours, quar­ters and min­utes. Loud, clear and bright, the strikes also fol­low a steady ca­dence al­though they could re­ver­ber­ate a lit­tle longer, which could be the dif­fer­ence between a pro­to­type and a fin­ished piece.

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