VACHERON CON­STANTIN OVER­SEAS DUAL TIME

Robb Report (Malaysia) - - Sihh -

This year’s ad­di­tion to the Over­seas col­lec­tion of 2016 is the much­wel­comed Over­seas Dual Time. The im­ple­men­ta­tion of this most use­ful of com­pli­ca­tions within a new me­chan­i­cal self­wind­ing move­ment – the Cal­iber 5100 DT – also comes with 60 hours of power re­serve and a 41mm case which is wa­ter re­sis­tant to 150m. A choice of stain­less steel or 18-carat pink gold are of­fered as case ma­te­rial, while strap op­tions run the gamut of bracelets, al­li­ga­tor leather and rub­ber straps.

It’s been 17 years since Ulysse Nardin in­tro­duced Freak and this watch is still as freaky as ever. This year’s ren­di­tion, named Freak Vi­sion, is the first in the col­lec­tion to be made with a self­wind­ing move­ment. Ulysse Nardin pre­miered the con­cept in its 2017 con­cept watch, Freak In­no­vi­sion 2. Be­cause Freak doesn’t have a crown, its main­spring is made to be wound by the bezel. The self-wind­ing ver­sion uses the pa­tented Grinder Au­to­matic Wind­ing Sys­tem that com­prises a frame con­tain­ing four arms, each of which flexes in tune with the wearer’s wrist move­ments. Each time the arms flex, they wind the main­spring – ac­cord­ing to Ulysse Nardin, it’s like hav­ing four ped­als on a bike in­stead of two. Also, it is reg­u­lated by the in-house man­u­fac­tured Ulysse Nardin An­chor Es­cape­ment also based on the prin­ci­ple of flex­i­ble mech­a­nisms, as it ex­ploits the elas­tic­ity of flat springs. This is a con­stant force es­cape­ment made en­tirely of sil­i­con and has a cir­cu­lar frame with a pal­let fork that moves with­out fric­tion.

This high-tech Freak might even ap­peal to watch nerds as much as sail­ing en­thu­si­asts as its move­ment de­sign comes from a boat’s hull, link­ing it in­ex­orably back to Ulysse Nardin’s strong mar­itime her­itage.

Def­i­nitely one of the most es­o­teric cre­ations by the Ger­man watch man­u­fac­ture in a long time, the 1815 Homage to Wal­ter Lange comes with not one but two sec­onds hands. Ac­cord­ing to A Lange & Sohne’s tech­ni­cal di­rec­tor An­thony de Haas, the idea for this watch orig­i­nated from its fourth gen­er­a­tion com­pany founder, Wal­ter Lange, who passed away in 2017. Lange had al­ways been drawn to the jump­ing sec­onds com­pli­ca­tion, in par­tic­u­lar, the one pa­tented by his great-grand­fa­ther FA Lange in 1867.

The 1815 Homage to Wal­ter Lange op­er­ates on the same prin­ci­ple as Lange’s in­ven­tion, scaled down to wrist­watch pro­por­tions, which must have been a huge chal­lenge for the watch­mak­ers. Skip­ping one sec­ond at a time, the cen­tral sec­onds hand may be started and stopped by the two o’clock pusher thus func­tion­ing as a sim­ple time­keeper while the run­ning sec­onds at the six o’clock sub- dial tracks its own steady pas­sage. This 40.5mm watch has a new move­ment Cal­i­bre L1924 in ref­er­ence to Wal­ter Lange’s birth year. www.alange-soehne.com

With the new L’as­tronomo PAM920, Pan­erai of­fi­cially has a moon phase com­pli­ca­tion to call its own. Ded­i­cated to Galileo Galilei, this mas­sive watch with a 50mm Lu­mi­nor 1950 case in brushed ti­ta­nium is a made-to- order piece per­son­alised to the co­or­di­nates of the owner’s home city. This is so that the moon phase in­di­ca­tion is al­ways ac­cu­rate to his or her view of the sky, like­wise with the sun­set/ sun­rise in­di­ca­tor, and is al­ways in sync with the GMT hand. At six o’clock the watch pro­vides a lin­ear equa­tion of time dis­play show­ing the dif­fer­ence be­tween mean so­lar time and ap­par­ent so­lar time.

Its moon phase dis­play dou­bles up as a day/night in­di­ca­tor where a pho­to­re­al­is­tic moon waxes and wanes be­neath a mid­night blue aper­ture dot­ted with stars, while a golden sun dom­i­nates the other half of the sphere. The move­ment, Cal­i­bre P. 2005/GLS, is fully skele­tonised and con­tains a new po­larised crys­tal date dis­play that re­veals the nu­mer­als only when it comes un­der the date win­dow. This patent-pend­ing in­ven­tion com­prises a borosil­i­cate glass ring with laser en­graved nu­mer­als and a date win­dow also made of po­larised crys­tal. The cal­i­bre’s tour­bil­lon ro­tates per­pen­dic­u­lar to the bal­ance and com­pletes one full ro­ta­tion in 30 sec­onds. www.pan­erai.com

It’s hard to forget a watch like Lady Ar­pels Plan­e­tar­ium, es­pe­cially when it gives you all the time in the uni­verse. Fol­low­ing in the foot­steps of the 2014 Mid­night Plan­e­tar­ium watch, this ele­gant woman’s watch isn’t sim­ply a down­scaled ver­sion of that piece. In fact, it has a sur­prise of its own.

This watch par­tially dis­plays our so­lar sys­tem be­gin­ning with the sun in pink gold po­si­tioned dead cen­tre, Mer­cury in pink moth­erof-pearl, Venus in green enamel and the Earth in beau­ti­ful blue turquoise. Like the first ver­sion, its aven­turine dial is made of ro­tat­ing rings (five for the plan­ets and one for the time-telling comet) and was de­vel­oped in col­lab­o­ra­tion with in­de­pen­dent watch­maker, Chris­ti­aan van der Klaauw.

Unique to this piece is a di­a­mond soli­taire moon con­nected to and or­bit­ing the Earth as it in turn or­bits the sun – if you need re­mind­ing – once ev­ery 365 days. Venus does the same in 224 days and Mer­cury, 88.

The move­ment is be­decked in pre­cious ma­te­ri­als even on the back, where an aven­turine disc func­tions as a legend (of sorts) and the os­cil­lat­ing weight made of turquoise and snow-paved di­a­monds. www.van­clee­farpels.com

As far as world timers go, this is one that you can ad­mire from any an­gle. Through the front, GMT Earth pro­vides a stun­ning view of the multi-level move­ment ar­chi­tec­ture in­clud­ing an off-cen­tred 24-sec­ond tour­bil­lon in­clined at 25 de­grees, the hour­minute dis­play, GMT dis­play, a power re­serve in­di­ca­tor and a three-di­men­sional globe.

Ac­com­mo­dat­ing the lat­ter fea­ture ne­ces­si­tated an un­usual crys­tal glass which is prac­ti­cally a hall­mark of many Greubel Forsey time­pieces. Front, back and lat­eral views of the globe are pos­si­ble through the watch’s unique struc­ture. Through the case­back is a prom­i­nent dis­play of the world’s 24 time zones in both sum­mer and win­ter, which is a first for the lux­ury watch in­dus­try.

GMT Earth is not a small watch and, since it’s cased in white gold, will be pretty hefty on the wrist. But all that mass only means more space for Greubel Forsey’s sig­na­ture hand-fin­ish­ing and dec­o­ra­tion, which takes no fewer than 450 hours to com­plete. The lat­eral plates too bear en­graved in­scrip­tions that en­cap­su­late the key val­ues of founders Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey.

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