ALL THE NEW CAL­I­BRES

Robb Report (Malaysia) - - Sihh - March - 2018

Be­neath the sub­tly redesigned Kalpa case is a new move­ment that pays homage to the roots of Parmi­giani Fleurier. Cal­i­bre PF365 is the world’s first solid gold self-wind­ing in­te­grated chrono­graph move­ment and is the re­sult of six years of de­vel­op­ment at the man­u­fac­ture. This move­ment is one of the few high fre­quency chrono­graphs in the in­dus­try, os­cil­lat­ing at 36,000vph or 5Hz. Un­like the older Kalpa chrono­graphs, this one has a case­back that fully ex­poses the move­ment, of­fer­ing views of the beau­ti­fully dec­o­rated move­ment. Swathed in haute hor­logerie fin­ishes, this gor­geous cal­i­bre has par­tially skele­tonised bridges around which 54 sharp in­ter­nal an­gles can be found, which means tra­di­tional hand bev­el­ling and cham­fer­ing. Like most of the best chrono­graph move­ments of our time, this one is col­umn wheel­con­trolled and ac­ti­vated via a ver­ti­cal clutch mech­a­nism. A Cosc-cer­ti­fied chronome­ter, this ton­neau- shaped move­ment fits per­fectly within the Kalpa case and stays pow­ered for a max­i­mum of 65 hours. www.parmi­giani.com

Con­tin­u­ing the Min­erva tra­di­tion of build­ing some of the world’s best chrono­graphs, Mont­blanc pre­sented a man­u­fac­ture chrono­graph cal­i­bre that pays trib­ute to the great watch­mak­ing firm but in a mod­ern and trendy way. Even though it doesn’t come with the sig­na­ture devil’s tail bridges found in his­tor­i­cal Min­erva move­ments, Cal­i­bre MB 25.10 has its own set of high watch­mak­ing hall­marks: bridges with Cotes de Geneve, plates with cir­cu­lar grain­ing, classical blued screws and well-bev­elled edges.

This self-wind­ing move­ment winds the main­spring with a monobloc os­cil­lat­ing weight in black rhodium-plated tung­sten that’s de­signed in the shape of a steer­ing wheel, which is a nod to Min­erva’s glory days of mo­tor rac­ing. As a chrono­graph, Cal­i­bre MB 25.10 is about as tra­di­tional as can be: col­umn wheel con­trol with hor­i­zon­tal in­stead of ver­ti­cal cou­pling, and a stop- sec­ond mech­a­nism that comes in handy when set­ting the time.

Cal­i­bre MB 25.10 is cased in the Time­walker Man­u­fac­ture Chrono­graph which has an iconic tri­counter panda dial that grace­fully bal­ances her­itage with style. www.mont­blanc.com

Half a cen­tury ago, the Po­laris Me­movox by Jaeger- Le­coul­tre was re­leased for the first time. That mid- cen­tury spirit is now in­fused into the new 2018 Po­laris col­lec­tion which also fea­tures a re­freshed Po­laris Me­movox. Crafted in a lim­ited edi­tion of 1,000 pieces, the Me­movox of 2018 fea­tures an un­mis­tak­able three- crown de­sign on a 42mm stain­less steel case. On this piece, one is able to set the alarm us­ing the top crown, ac­ti­vat­ing a strik­ing mech­a­nism with a gong which rings even in the wa­ter, with a re­sis­tance up to 200m.

The re­cently an­nounced part­ner­ship be­tween Roger Dubuis and Lam­borgh­ini Squadra Corse has also birthed two dis­tinc­tive 45mm time­pieces which bear hall­marks of both the sto­ried Ital­ian mar­que and the ir­re­press­ible Geneva watch­maker. Gen­tle­man rac­ers will surely no­tice a re­sem­blance of en­gine strut bars on the re­vamped 312-part RD103SQ hand-wound move­ment, while the double bal­ance wheels are in­clined and sup­ported by hold­ers sim­i­lar to wheel sus­pen­sion as­sem­blies. A car­bon and ti­ta­nium case ar­chi­tec­ture is over­moulded with rub­ber to fur­ther re­flect the su­per­car as­so­ci­a­tion. Mean­while, the same C-SMC car­bon used on ac­tual Lam­borgh­ini cars is also em­ployed in the con­struc­tion of the Ex­cal­ibur Aven­ta­dor S Blue. Both the blue and pink gold vari­ants are lim­ited to 88 pieces each.

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