Of a woman
Much like everything else in this world, change is inevitable and the way fragrance is constructed has changed the most ... Today, there are more than 1,000 fragrances out there and you need to be able to grab the consumer’s attention within the first 30 seconds. career in the totally unrelated field of quality control.
Then, she became an apprentice perfumer at Roure Bertrand Dupont, and the rest, as they say, is history.
Apart from the standard floral (the largest scent family), oriental, citrus and woody fragrances, Loren also spoke about the lesser known fougere (fern-like) fragrances, more often found in grooming products, and her personal favourite, chypre scents.
Chypre (which means cyprus in French) is based on a harmony of oak moss, labdanum, patchouli and bergamot, and is an important category of fragrance in Europe.
The irony is, Loren herself hardly wears any scent as she’s around fragrances all the time, and if she does have one on, it’s prob-
ably something that she’s working on for the moment!
Much like everything else in this world, change is inevitable and the way fragrance is constructed has changed the most, she said.
In the past, more attention was given to the top and heart notes of a fragrance.
According to Loren, the “top note” will last for the first 20 or 30 minutes.
Eventually, the perfume will settle and become the “heart” of the scent, which lasts for about six hours.
The “base notes” of the perfume remain on the skin the longest.
“But today, there are more than 1,000 fragrances out there and you need to be able to grab the consumer’s attention within the first 30 seconds. There’s a whole paradigm shift in how consumers view fragrance and I see a separation in the market place.
“Now you have the consumer who is willing to pay for something unique, and this constitutes the higher end of the market where he or she wants a more individual scent which has more craftsmanship. There’s more involved in the creation process and this means going back to basics, and old accords are being used again,” she said.
A classic example would be Chanel No. 5, which has withstood the test of time. After the Depression in the 1930s, sales shot through the roof as people went for a proven scent.
Then again, some scents are “disposable” as they pop up as the flavour of the month, and don’t really stick around for long, for example, some of the celebrity-endorsed scents. Loren reckons the lifespan of such scents is only about six months.
For the industry, Loren feels the overall global view is very flat, however, there are pockets of growth and a lot of excitement in certain regions around the world. “I see South-East Asia as being one of those areas. Although the climate is hot and mostly humid, there is a predisposition to wearing fragrance and an enthusiasm for it,” she concluded.
Fragrance of life: Trudi Loren believes the fragrance industry is going back to basics to meet consumer demands for more individual scents.