Bul­gari’s new scent for men

The nose be­hind bul­gari’s new­est mas­cu­line scent ex­plains its aquatic in­flu­ences.

The Star Malaysia - Star2 - - FRONT PAGE - By WIL­LIAM K.C. KEE

FOR Bul­gari’s lat­est mas­cu­line fra­grance, Aqua Amara, it turned to none other than renowned per­fumer Jac­ques Caval­lier.

It was a re­peat col­lab­o­ra­tion; al­most a decade ago, Caval­lier con­cocted the best-sell­ing Aqua Pour Homme for the Ital­ian lux­ury house.

As the new scent is in­spired by or­anges, lemons and el­e­ments of the Mediter­ranean, Caval­lier re­vis­ited some of the in­flu­ences he used on Aqua Pour Homme, mix­ing them up with a new se­lec­tion of nat­u­ral in­gre­di­ents in­clud­ing Tu­nisian neroli essence, Si­cil­ian man­darins and In­done­sian patchouli.

Mas­ter per­fumer

Grow­ing up sur­rounded by the jas­mine fields of Grasse, Caval­lier’s ear­li­est mem­ory of the scent is of har­vest­ing blos­soms at 5am.

Dur­ing his child­hood, when his fa­ther in­tro­duced him to the ol­fac­tive mol­e­cule He­dione, Caval­lier knew that he would be­come a per­fumer.

He earned his bac­calau­re­ate at 16 and joined Charabot, pass­ing from stoke­hole to dis­tillery, chro­matog­ra­phy to chem­i­cals. He did his scales re­li­giously, not­ing his im­pres­sions ac­cord­ing to Edmond Roud­nit­ska’s method of “ol­fac­tive study by con­trast”.

Caval­lier’s suc­cesses in the fine fra­grance mar­ket earned him the ti­tle of Mas­ter Per­fumer at Fir­menich, in 2000. In 2004, he was hon­oured with the cov­eted “Prix François Coty”.

Asked about his in­spi­ra­tion for Aqua Amara, Jac­ques replies (in a press re­lease) that emo­tion can be sourced every­where: from trav­els to chance en­coun­ters, to ev­ery­day life with his wife and two young daugh­ters. An ac­com­plished cook, he favours Mediter­ranean dishes be­cause “you can con­vey so many emo­tions with very few in­gre­di­ents.”


Ob­serves Caval­lier, “I love giv­ing a prod­uct a cer­tain qual­ity – it is never about pleas­ing the great­est num­ber of people. It is about cre­at­ing some­thing that is true in the long term.”

Al­though he de­clines to name a favourite flower, all of Caval­lier’s per­fumes in­clude rose, which he ap­pre­ci­ates for its blend of mas­cu­line and fem­i­nine char­ac­ter­is­tics. For him, the act of cre­ation is a di­a­logue that can last a life­time: he has been re­fin­ing a jas­mine ac­cord for 25 years, out of pure pas­sion.

“Plea­sure is the key,” he notes. “This is a soli­tary pro­fes­sion; the joy comes from shar­ing.”

Where his work for Bul­gari scents is con­cerned, Caval­lier notes: “Wa­ter is an im­por­tant part of Bul­gari’s his­tory.

“In 2004, I cre­ated Aqua, a deep, pure, re­fresh­ing wa­ter with aroma-

Bali, In­donesi


tic ac­cents that make this mas­cu­line fra­grance ab­so­lutely se­duc­tive,” ex­plains Caval­lier.

This collection, in­spired by Bul­gari’s Greco-Ro­man her­itage, continues with Aqua Amara, which is an­other vi­sion of an aquatic fra­grance.

“For this fra­grance, I wanted to con­vey an idea of wa­ter rich in oligo-el­e­ments,” muses Caval­lier. “A wa­ter that pu­ri­fies, that ra­di­ates sun­light when worn.”

For Caval­lier, the bot­tle’s cop­per hue was a strong in­spi­ra­tion.

“I knew that we needed warmth to con­trast the fresh­ness of this fra­grance. It was this par­tic­u­lar colour that pushed me to­ward the idea of the rich­ness of Aqua Amara.”

Es­sen­tial essence

‘I love giv­ing a prod­uct a cer­tain qual­ity,’ says per­fumer Jac­ques Caval­lier, who is back to col­lab­o­rat­ing with Ital­ian lux­ury house bul­gari. Wa­ter is one of the im­por­tant el­e­ments for bul­gari when it comes to aqua amara, its new­est scent for men.

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