Mak­ing an im­pact

Karl Lager­feld creates Asian waves for Fendi while Prada goes on a life jour­ney.

The Star Malaysia - Star2 - - TRENDS - By COLLEEN BARRY

A de­bate launched dur­ing New York and Lon­don fash­ion weeks on speed­ing the de­liv­ery of new fash­ions to sate an im­pa­tient pub­lic was on de­sign­ers’ minds as Mi­lan Fash­ion Week started last week .

Yet the no­tion of strut­ting run­way cre­ations straight into store win­dows and con­sumers’ shop­ping bags, as some across the At­lantic Ocean and English Chan­nel are con­tem­plat­ing, was find­ing some re­sis­tance in the Ital­ian fash­ion sys­tem, where the fo­cus is on cre­ativ­ity and crafts­man­ship.

Here are the high­lights from Prada and Fendi:

Fendi tsunami

Karl Lager­feld is cre­at­ing waves with his lat­est col­lec­tion for Fendi, which in­cludes un­du­lat­ing gar­ments, bags and even footwear.

Man­i­fold ruf­fles in the Ja­panin­spired col­lec­tion brought to mind the famed Hoku­sai prints of waves. Lager­feld broke the sur­face with ruf­fles along the neck­line or run­ning down sleeves, stiff waves of leather dec­o­rat­ing boots that rose to the knees or thighs, and the scal­loped han­dles and edges of elab­o­rate bags.

The op­ti­cal ef­fect of move­ment was pro­longed by striped tops with puffy shoul­ders and gath­ered el­bows, and longer, bil­low­ing dresses. Fendi’s trade­mark fur coats in­cluded a short blue cape- like con­struc­tion that bore ath­letic black- and- white stripes along the bot­tom, and was worn with thigh- high leather boots.

The over­all dark pal­ette was bright­ened by aqua­ma­rine, co­ral, pur­ple, mustard and turquoise. Bags were furry de­lights, or stiffer leather with colorful pat­terns, in­clud­ing one sun­set.

Two spe­cial guests from Ja­pan de­lighted Asian vis­i­tors at the show, two- me­ter ( 6- foot) tall Kig­u­rumi mas­cots, one a pink fe­male named Piro- chan and a blue boy called Bug- kun. Both are be­ing re­pro­duced in minia­ture as Fendi’s cov­eted furry bag bug charms that adorn hand­bags.

In a nod to the siren call of fast fash­ion, the bag bugs are be­ing sold im­me­di­ately on the lux­ury brand’s web­site – but with a catch. There is a lim­ited run of 80.

Prada vagabond

Corseted up, col­lar askew, it’s bon voy­age for Prada’s vagabond. And the jour­ney is life.

Mi­uc­cia Prada fa­vored mil­i­tary style jack­ets over pretty skirts and dresses for next win­ter’s looks. Corsets of ev­ery va­ri­ety de­fined the sil­hou­ette, worn over jack­ets and dresses, or sewn into over­coats.

The looks, the de­signer said, were a col­lage rep­re­sent­ing all the dif­fer­ent sides of a woman, in­clud­ing key mo­ments of her life, “be­cause I think we need to un­der­stand who we are now.”

The col­lec­tion plays with the sly joke about whether a woman is dress­ing up to be an ob­ject, or to be pow­er­ful, the de­signer said.

Out­er­wear, in­clud­ing trenches, capes and anoraks, was of a sturdy, mil­i­tary breed, mostly in olive green or navy blue, and worn with am­ple skirts, pleated or not, of­ten in bro­cade, or tiny sheer mini dresses. Some­times, there was no skirt at all, just ar­gyle tights. As this col­lec­tion was a med­i­ta­tion on a women’s his­tory, trousers just didn’t fit in.

Lit­tle purses and sets of gal­ley keys were worn as neck­laces or fas­tened to the neck. As in menswear, looks were fin­ished with sailor caps, th­ese in­clud­ing shiny rain- re­sis­tant ver­sions.

Footwear in­cluded lace- up boots and shoes to echo the corset and golden sandals to wear with golden lame, embroidered dress- es that spoke to the Prada women’s worth.

Prada’s new mil­i­tary- in­spired Pion­niere and note­book- like Cahier bags were worn strapped across or dan­gling from the body. They go on sale im­me­di­ately in bou­tiques in the fash­ion cities of Mi­lan, Lon­don, Paris and New York, a mar­ket­ing move that gives hun­gry con­sumers a taste of what they want NOW.

Pho­tos: Agen­cies

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