Hit and misses

1980s glam makes a Paris come­back as Chanel stays classy.

The Star Malaysia - Star2 - - STYLE -

IT was back to the fu­ture on the Paris cat­walks as Chanel clev­erly tweaked its back cat­a­logue only for Saint Lau­rent to re­vive a look that some thought best for­got­ten.

In what could be his last show for the la­bel, de­signer Hedi Sli­mane – the man cred­ited with the skinny black jeans look and mak­ing grunge glam – was judged to have given the brand “the fin­ger” by par­o­dy­ing its founder Yves Saint Lau­rent's least glo­ri­ous pe­riod. The hugely- in­flu­en­tial Women's Wear Daily was scathing about his col­lec­tion which went hell for shiny snake­skin leather for late 1980s vamp, claim­ing that it was draw­ing on a time when “Yves Saint Lau­rent was well past his cre­ative prime”.

Sli­mane sent out a suc­ces­sion of very short one- shoul­dered dresses with gi­gan­tic bows, belts and black an­gel or bat wings that would not have looked out of place in "Mi­ami Vice".

Their full- throt­tle glam­our had some style edi­tors shift­ing awk­wardly in their chairs, each of which car­ried a brass plate onto which their names had been en­graved.

Cat­suits

Vogue, how­ever, was com­pli­men­tary, hail­ing “Sli­mane fir­ing on full on Eight­ies glam... club­land style” and par­tic­u­larly ador­ing a “cropped smok­ing topped off a sk­intight se­quin cat­suit”.

The ver­dict on so­cial me­dia was mixed. While one style editor wryly de­scribed one dress as “Batwoman”, a red heart- shaped fur coat pro­voked an­other fash­ion fan to tweet “I can't be­lieve Saint Lau­rent mur­dered Gos­samer from Looney Tunes to make a coat” – re­fer­ring to the hairy red mon­ster who is al­ways try­ing to eat Bugs Bunny.

“It must have been par­ody – as in gi­ant middle- fin­ger par­ody,' Brid­get Fo­ley of Women's Wear Daily wrote of the show which was staged in a Left Bank man­sion.

“‘ Hey,’ Hedi Sli­mane said with ev­ery look, ‘ you who didn't love my in­die- drug­gie- grungy- dis­af­fected LA youth rou­tine th­ese past four years. How ' bout Eight­ies camp cou­ture...’ The par­ody didn't play nicely.”

She was not a fan ei­ther of the ex­ag­ger­ated padded shoul­ders of his coats. “Just how silly can a shoul­der treat­ment get? An­swer: Pretty silly.”

An 80s vibe

There was no such con­tro­versy at Chanel, where de­signer Karl Lager­feld, who was only hit­ting his stride in the 1980s, con­tin­ued his mod­ernising riff on the brand's core looks, with lots of boucle wool jack­ets, coats and skirts, and piles of pearls and big neck­laces.

The Kaiser, as Lager­feld is known, cre­ated an old- fash­ioned cou­ture sa­lon in­side the French cap­i­tal's Grand Palais.

His mod­els strode down the aisles in front of stars that in­cluded singer Phar­rell Wil­liams in rid­ing hats that had a lit­tle of Ber­tie Bas­sett about them.

While Coco Chanel loved to sport a boater, Lager­feld said that the hats were “some­thing you could nearly wear on your bike and on your mo­tor­bike be­cause they can pro­tect you.”

“They are quite tough... but at the same time they have a friv­o­lous note with a piece of jew­ellery of a flower there,” he added.

A strong eques­trian theme ran right through the col­lec­tion with the hats dec­o­rated with rosettes and black rid­ing boots open at the an­kles.

De­spite the set evok­ing the nos­tal­gia of an old cou­ture show, Lager­feld, 82, said there was noth­ing old school about his clothes.

“Th­ese dresses are not old cou­ture, the col­lec­tion has a more street at­ti­tude,” he in­sisted.

The mod­els were not tot­ter­ing in high heels he said, be­cause th­ese clothes “were made for walk­ing, like Nancy Si­na­tra's song – Th­ese Boots Are Made For Walk­ing.”

Pho­tos: aFP

chaNEL

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