Out with hunks
MUSCULAR, classically chiselled male models are a dying breed as men are ever more chosen for thinness, even androgyny, in a fashion world playing with the notion of gender.
It only takes looking back a decade to male fashion shows – at Versace, Givenchy, Louis Vuitton or Gucci – to see the change on the catwalk.
Shoulders have lost their squareness, chests have sunk.
Back then, “male models were a little bit bigger... not so, so skinny,” said Tricia Romani, head of the Canadian branch of the Wilhelmina international modelling agency.
Hedi Slimane, while at Saint Laurent and Dior, was among the designers who transfigured the dominant vision of the masculine look into lank, languorous and unique.
“For high fashion, that’s definitely what they want. Very thin, edgy-looking guys,” Romani said.
“And they’re designing the clothes in that way so if you had a model that was big and muscular, that wouldn’t fit.”
Skinnier, the new ideal male model is also taller, hitting up to six feet two inches (1.90m), said Neil Mautone, founder and owner of the agency Red Model Management.
Along with the fading ideal of muscle is the classically beautiful face, formerly in demand for men as well as women.
Today, according to Romani, “a male model can be sort of interesting looking, or edgy or different” and be hired even if he does not fall into “a category of plastic, beautiful models”.
With the growing power of male fashion, seen in the 2015 launch of the first men’s shows in New York Fashion Week, demand for male models has exploded.
Between 10% tp 15% of male models find enough work to be employed full-time, combining runway shows, advertising, catalogues and magazines, Romani said.
The top-end models can earn more than US$1 million (RM4.1 million) a year, people in the industry say, though the best-paid female models can make about 10 times more.
Man, woman, who cares? Responding to the growing market, model agencies and designers are trashing stereotypes and broadening their palettes, an approach that is also boosting ethnic diversity, Romani noted.
The new ideal look, the evolution of men’s fashion and the current focus on gender have blurred the lines between men and women.
That was more evident than ever on the New York catwalks recently. Several shows were decidedly “gender fluid”, parading out clothes that could be worn by either sex.
The streetwise New York brand Hood By Air, a pioneer of the trend, was joined by Dutch studio Maison the Faux and Baja East, a New York-based company known for relaxed luxury apparel.
For Maison the Faux, un-
A model displays a collection called “Chubby Chaser” by Netherlands-based Maison The Faux during New York Fashion Week September 2016.