From scan­dalous to iconic

> Paris ex­hi­bi­tion ex­plores fashion’s shocks and scan­dals through the ages

The Sun (Malaysia) - - STYLE -

The ex­hi­bi­tion’s open­ing sec­tion looks at the many “rules” of dress im­posed via dif­fer­ent means in var­i­ous his­tor­i­cal eras, from the Bi­ble to mod­ern-day makeover shows, to sta­tus-re­lated dress codes, such as those for pow­er­ful men and women. The wolf whis­tles and re­marks that the French min­is­ter for hous­ing, Cé­cile Du­flot, re­ceived when she wore a flo­ral dress to speak at the Na­tional Assem­bly in 2012 are the per­fect illustration.

While it’s now com­mon to see de­sign­ers bring menswear gar­ments to wom­enswear col­lec­tions, this hasn’t al­ways been the case. The sec­ond part of the ex­hi­bi­tion delves into fashion’s var­i­ous gen­der trans­gres­sions, blur­ring the bound­ary be­tween menswear and wom­enswear. In the 1920s, for ex­am­ple, Gabrielle Chanel broke new ground with her sim­ple fuss­free suits, draw­ing on menswear clas­sics. Four decades later, Yves Saint Lau­rent pre­sented a tuxedo suit for women. These fashion rev­o­lu­tions haven’t al­ways been the sub­ject of praise, rais­ing more than a pass­ing eye­brow when they burst onto the scene. Menswear has also pro­voked strong re­ac­tions over the ages by bor­row­ing fem­i­nine twists such as skirts (Jac­ques Esterel, Jean Paul Gaultier), fig­ure-hug­ging cuts and makeup.

The show will also look at provo­ca­tion and ex­cess, ex­plor­ing gar­ments that were in turn too short, too loose, too trans­par­ent, too brightly-coloured, too dark, too scruffy or too tight. From the miniskirt to feath­ers and fur, skinny-cut trousers and ripped clothes, vis­i­tors can re­live fashion’s most scan­dalous cre­ations, and of­ten, by ex­ten­sion, its most ground­break­ing evo­lu­tions.

The ex­hi­bi­tion closes with a roundup of shock cat­walk shows from 1980 to 2015, in­clud­ing John Gal­liano’s spring/sum­mer 2000 col­lec­tion for Dior in­spired by the “home­less look”, and the Rick Owens spring/sum­mer 2015 col­lec­tion with cut­away tu­nics re­veal­ing the models’ most in­ti­mate parts.

“Tenue cor­recte ex­igée, quand le vête­ment fait scan­dale” (Ap­pro­pri­ate dress re­quired: when cloth­ing causes a scan­dal) runs Dec 1, 2016, to April 23, 2017, at the Musée des Arts Dé­co­rat­ifs in Paris, France. – AFP Re­laxnews

Ado­nis Bosso, New York City.

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