Fish Farm Thai Restau­rant

Time Out Malaysia Eating and Drinking Guide - - EATING -

Get­ting here is an ad­ven­ture – it’s a wind­ing drive along largely un­lit Jalan Hulu Lan­gat, out­side the city lim­its. Ap­proach from the west and you can stop at the old look­out point for one of the best views you’ll ever get of KL’s sprawl­ing night-time sky­line, glit­ter­ing in the dark like dis­tant fire­flies.

Even­tu­ally you’ll see it, a re­splen­dent burst of light: the big sign point­ing to­wards Fish Farm. One more bit of peril awaits you: The slope lead­ing to the restau­rant is a knuckle-whiten­ing plunge down rough con­crete and gravel.

It’s called ‘Fish Farm’ for a rea­son: Nearly ev­ery­thing that comes to your ta­ble has been grown and har­vested on-site, in the sprawl­ing multi-acre prop­erty tended to by staff. The restau­rant it­self con­sists of a num­ber of ope­nair wooden struc­tures perched on stilts over a reser­voir full of hap­pily free-swimming fish. You can see them be­neath the floor­boards, mak­ing the wa­ter rip­ple.

Our meal comes to us within five min­utes. We start with lob­ster rolled into balls and fried in but­ter (RM35), with some curry and spices. It’s creamy and rich – a bit of a crunch at first, giv­ing way to a suc­cu­lent in­te­rior. It’s served along­side the empty shells, pre­sum­ably so we’re clear on where the meat came from. Be­fore long we’re peer­ing into those hol­low shells a lit­tle mourn­fully, hop­ing for more.

The Thai-style tilapia (RM30) is a real tri­umph. Ev­ery bite of the crispy skin and ten­der white flesh fills the mouth with the rich, sharp taste of chillies and lemon­grass, a flavour that leaves the nos­trils tin­gling.

The only dis­ap­point­ment is the pan­dan chicken (RM30) – serves us right for or­der­ing it at a place re­puted for its Thai seafood. It’s a bit tough, dry and on the bland side. It’s res­cued by the ac­com­pa­ny­ing sweet chilli sauce; it re­ally needs the ex­tra tangi­ness and mois­ture.

Noah Nazim KM 4 Jalan Am­pang – Hulu Lan­gat, Se­lan­gor (019 260 6493). Daily, 11am–11pm.

Best for Ad­ven­tur­ous evenings out with friends, when you can revel (over beer) in the steady bell-chime of ci­cadas and crick­ets com­pet­ing with the live mu­sic.

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