Fish Farm Thai Restaurant
Getting here is an adventure – it’s a winding drive along largely unlit Jalan Hulu Langat, outside the city limits. Approach from the west and you can stop at the old lookout point for one of the best views you’ll ever get of KL’s sprawling night-time skyline, glittering in the dark like distant fireflies.
Eventually you’ll see it, a resplendent burst of light: the big sign pointing towards Fish Farm. One more bit of peril awaits you: The slope leading to the restaurant is a knuckle-whitening plunge down rough concrete and gravel.
It’s called ‘Fish Farm’ for a reason: Nearly everything that comes to your table has been grown and harvested on-site, in the sprawling multi-acre property tended to by staff. The restaurant itself consists of a number of openair wooden structures perched on stilts over a reservoir full of happily free-swimming fish. You can see them beneath the floorboards, making the water ripple.
Our meal comes to us within five minutes. We start with lobster rolled into balls and fried in butter (RM35), with some curry and spices. It’s creamy and rich – a bit of a crunch at first, giving way to a succulent interior. It’s served alongside the empty shells, presumably so we’re clear on where the meat came from. Before long we’re peering into those hollow shells a little mournfully, hoping for more.
The Thai-style tilapia (RM30) is a real triumph. Every bite of the crispy skin and tender white flesh fills the mouth with the rich, sharp taste of chillies and lemongrass, a flavour that leaves the nostrils tingling.
The only disappointment is the pandan chicken (RM30) – serves us right for ordering it at a place reputed for its Thai seafood. It’s a bit tough, dry and on the bland side. It’s rescued by the accompanying sweet chilli sauce; it really needs the extra tanginess and moisture.
Noah Nazim KM 4 Jalan Ampang – Hulu Langat, Selangor (019 260 6493). Daily, 11am–11pm.
Best for Adventurous evenings out with friends, when you can revel (over beer) in the steady bell-chime of cicadas and crickets competing with the live music.