Lim Chee Wah says…

Time Out Malaysia Eating and Drinking Guide - - EATING -

In re­cent years, we’ve seen rule-break­ing chefs, stylish in­ter­pre­ta­tions of Euro­pean cui­sine and the re­turn of some old favourites. Here are the dishes that best stood out. By the Sitka is here to show us that our lo­cal pro­duce is not in­fe­rior; we just don’t re­spect it enough. There are only around ten dishes in the din­ner menu, all us­ing lo­cally grown or pro­duced in­gre­di­ents, and yet it’s more fo­cused and inspired than most of the restau­rants I’ve eaten at this year. Each dish is made of many com­po­nents, and they are ex­e­cuted with such pre­ci­sion that you get a clar­ity of flavours and tex­tures in each mouth­ful. The pair­ing of flavours is mod­ern and in­ven­tive: home­made duck pro­sciutto with wa­ter­melon, but­ter whipped with beef fat, scal­lop with pulled lamb, duck with pear jam and miso pump­kin... Sure, they’re so­phis­ti­cated, in­ven­tive and ex­cit­ing, but not the least bit rad­i­cal. The dishes are easy to un­der­stand and im­mea­sur­ably en­joy­able.

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