Time Out Malaysia Eating and Drinking Guide - - MAKING BACON IS A WEEK-LONG PROCESS. IKKY SHOWS US -

Be­sides beef noo­dles and cen­dol, Serem­ban has qui­etly kept this next gem of a dish to them­selves. Said to have orig­i­nated here with the lo­cal Hakka com­mu­nity, hakka mee is a sim­ple bowl of glossy noo­dles tossed in oil and topped with minced pork, bring­ing a burst of umami flavours that are fresh­ened up by spring onions and pick­led green chilli. Some vari­a­tions in­clude crispy pork lard and finely diced mush­rooms too.

Ini­tially, I made plans to hop over to the fa­mous Tow Kee Hakka Mee lo­cated at the same wet mar­ket but much to my cha­grin, they had run out. Re­fus­ing to give up, I de­cided to try my luck at known for 26A, Ground floor, Jalan Seng Meng Lee, Serem­ban. bowl of hakka mee came swiftly: the noo­dles were springy but not dry, a lit­tle lack­ing in ‘oomph’ but the house­blend chilli paste took care o of that. This ver­sion came with minced pork and char siew (bar­be­cued pork) that was a lit­tle sweet, giv­ing some life to the bowl.

I could feel the on­set of a food coma but I jolted to life as soon as I saw the waiter bring­ing a bowl of shi fun to my ta­ble. Known as Yi Poh noo­dles here, this recipe for fun dates back to 1948 when the shop started out as a push cart. The spe­cial­ity lies in the noo­dles, known as lai fun, which are more elas­tic and chewier than the ones you find in KL, where the noo­dles are sharp on the edges and short, like rats’ tails. How­ever, the bare­ness of this bowl sur­prised me. There was no hint of crushed greens, just a dol­lop of minced pork on top of the noo­dles and a few measly pieces of char siew. I tossed ev­ery­thing with the lard and soy sauce sit­ting un­der­neath the noo­dles which em­anated an invit­ing aroma but un­for­tu­nately, it took a spoon­ful of the house-blend chilli paste to give it more body and taste. Per­haps I caught them on a bad day, as I’ve eaten this dish be­fore and it had a more nu­anced flavour with added spring onions and less of an over­whelm­ing lard taste.

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