Just as we started the trek, we bumped into a villager carrying a gas cylinder in a rattan basket strapped to his back. Our own bags felt a little bit lighter. We reached Terian at about 2pm, and had lunch in the river.
Jolumin Sipail, a native of Terian who currently works with Sabah Parks, gathered us in the community hall to talk about the origins of his village and its future. If and when the RM2billion Kaiduan Dam project starts, all that is along the salt trail – its fragile ecosystems, the people and their customs, along with their ancestral land – will be submerged. Everything is at stake.
After dinner, there was a small party in the kitchen, with our talented guide Johan on guitar. Supper was a delicious serving of a clear sky with a side of stars. We gathered outside for a night of star-gazing and pondering on the meaning of life.