Elie-Saab: Gypsy in his soul

Malta Independent - - LIFESTYLE ON SATURDAY -

Could this re­ally be the metic­u­lous Elie Saab re­veal­ing the gypsy in his soul?

The de­signer has been re­lax­ing his look for a while now and his haute cou­ture ear­lier this year, in­spired by In­dia, was per­haps a pre­lude to this Au­tumn/Win­ter 2016-2017 Readyto-wear col­lec­tion. Surely this must be opera’s gypsy girl Car­men, pas­sion­ately fol­low­ing her lover into the moun­tains, her dress first a tidy pat­tern of red

and blue flow­ers on black lace, then heat­ing up with an em­broi­dered tore­ador jacket worked with skinny black pants - later a leather jacket slipped over a long dress, its colours mix­ing sun­set red and puffy blue clouds.

The heart of an Elie Saab col­lec­tion is in the hand­work, and the polka dots on tulle or lace dresses were a lively form of dec­o­ra­tion. The de­signer has al­lowed his woman to leave the glam­orous world of af­ter-six dresses for the cock­tail hour and be­yond, and by ex­plor­ing the rest of her life, Saab has en­riched his vi­sion and his fash­ion uni­verse. The fi­nal out­fits, re-creat­ing the de­signer’s quin­tes­sen­tial lace in black leather, marked a tran­si­tion to tough glam­our.

Silk and leather fringes sweep across skirts, jack­ets and dresses, invit­ing ease of move­ment for the mod­ern ur­ban no­mad while black passe­man­terie and rib­bons form a har­mony of em­bel­lish­ment.

Muted polka dots travel through the col­lec­tion in s med­ley of print, lace and em­bel­lish­ment. Ab­stract prints of bold flo­rals and ris­ing smoke in fiery Car­men red and black off­set hues of moon­light, topaz, pearl and re­gal black dahlia.

The mood of Elie Saab’s Au­tumn-Win­ter 2016-17 de­picts the elu­sive, melodic dance be­tween fem­i­nine and fierce, grounded and free.

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