Elie-Saab: Gypsy in his soul
Could this really be the meticulous Elie Saab revealing the gypsy in his soul?
The designer has been relaxing his look for a while now and his haute couture earlier this year, inspired by India, was perhaps a prelude to this Autumn/Winter 2016-2017 Readyto-wear collection. Surely this must be opera’s gypsy girl Carmen, passionately following her lover into the mountains, her dress first a tidy pattern of red
and blue flowers on black lace, then heating up with an embroidered toreador jacket worked with skinny black pants - later a leather jacket slipped over a long dress, its colours mixing sunset red and puffy blue clouds.
The heart of an Elie Saab collection is in the handwork, and the polka dots on tulle or lace dresses were a lively form of decoration. The designer has allowed his woman to leave the glamorous world of after-six dresses for the cocktail hour and beyond, and by exploring the rest of her life, Saab has enriched his vision and his fashion universe. The final outfits, re-creating the designer’s quintessential lace in black leather, marked a transition to tough glamour.
Silk and leather fringes sweep across skirts, jackets and dresses, inviting ease of movement for the modern urban nomad while black passemanterie and ribbons form a harmony of embellishment.
Muted polka dots travel through the collection in s medley of print, lace and embellishment. Abstract prints of bold florals and rising smoke in fiery Carmen red and black offset hues of moonlight, topaz, pearl and regal black dahlia.
The mood of Elie Saab’s Autumn-Winter 2016-17 depicts the elusive, melodic dance between feminine and fierce, grounded and free.