Nina Ricci Pre-Fall Col­lec­tion

Malta Independent - - LIFESTYLE ON SATURDAY -

Guil­laume Henry’s first pre-fall col­lec­tion for Nina Ricci was his most suc­cess­ful at­tempt to mod­ern­ize the House’s overtly fem­i­nine ethos with his vi­sion of bour­geois min­i­mal­ism that is both del­i­cate and rough. “I like to de­sign fem­i­nine clothes that are not so proper, a bit scruffy, mix­ing the poor and the rich,” said Henry, not­ing the crin­kled ef­fect on a dress or the shaggy tex­ture of a deep green fur coat in a patch­work of Mon­go­lian sheep­skins and mink.

He cap­tured the con­tra­dic­tory ap­peal of women in men’s coats, lin­gerie lace mixed with men’s wear, checked wool on dresses, and a py­jama jacket worn with a ball­gown. Yet the pal­ette is purely fem­i­nine, de­rived from clas­sic makeup colours like the terra-cotta colour of a pantsuit with a crin­kled chif­fon blouse with a big, floppy Pier­rot col­lar, and the rusty rouge of a leather dress.

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