Nina Ricci Pre-Fall Collection
Guillaume Henry’s first pre-fall collection for Nina Ricci was his most successful attempt to modernize the House’s overtly feminine ethos with his vision of bourgeois minimalism that is both delicate and rough. “I like to design feminine clothes that are not so proper, a bit scruffy, mixing the poor and the rich,” said Henry, noting the crinkled effect on a dress or the shaggy texture of a deep green fur coat in a patchwork of Mongolian sheepskins and mink.
He captured the contradictory appeal of women in men’s coats, lingerie lace mixed with men’s wear, checked wool on dresses, and a pyjama jacket worn with a ballgown. Yet the palette is purely feminine, derived from classic makeup colours like the terra-cotta colour of a pantsuit with a crinkled chiffon blouse with a big, floppy Pierrot collar, and the rusty rouge of a leather dress.