SLOW COOKING AT ITS FINEST 慢工出细活的烹饪
Mauritian cuisine was traditionally created around a creative assortment of f lavours left to simmer for hours. At Karay Mario in Beau Vallon, in the south of the island, that tradition is fully embraced. The house’s priorities are old recipes, fresh produce and a warm welcome.
传统的毛里求斯菜基于数小时炖煮产生的各种味道的创造性混合。位于博瓦隆 (Beau Vallon) 的 Karay Mario 完全接受了这一传统。这间餐馆的优先事项包括旧式菜单、新鲜产品和热情的欢迎。
In an old building with red wooden shutters, the owner welcomes his guests in his apron and perennial hat. After a long career in catering and hospitality, Mario de l’Estrac opened his own place so he could share authentic Mauritian cuisine with his visitors.
When he moved to Beau Vallon, Mario returned to his hometown in Mahébourg. He chose to open this restaurant to work through his retirement but also to have fun. Indeed, he began the trade in the kitchen. Though he then rose through the ranks in the hotel business, his love for food remained. “Cooking is a real passion of mine. Even at the peak of my career as director of Ile aux Deux Cocos, I was often in the kitchen for my own pleasure, “says Mario.
Karay Mario is a family business. Mario’s daughter Mélanie still remembers the search for the right location and the six months spent stripping the walls to reveal the old stone work: “We wanted to create a true hearth in the region because the whole family loves the south. We were targeting business customers in the area who might then come back with their families over the weekend.”
The restaurant opened in November 2018. It also relies on the talent of Ariane, wife of Mario. The lady of the house has a flair for tasty Mauritian dishes, but above all for the science of simmering ingredients. “Real Mauritian cuisine is made slowly. Like our grandmothers, we prepare all the ingredients carefully, dose them well and let them simmer as long as it takes to bring out the flavours, “explains Mario.
The menu changes daily with three or four options. They range from smoked meat rougaille to fish broth and brèdes mouroum (moringa leaves) or even deer or wild boar in a curry or salmi. Vegetarians can opt for jackfruit curry. The house also serves fish and octopus, in a papaya curry, salmi or stew.
On Sundays, visitors come in crowds for the crab stew. Karay Mario orders fresh supplies from fishermen, fishmongers and farmers in Mahébourg, while the restaurant’s game is sourced from the Ferney hunting property. The dessert menu also changes daily: papaya jam, caramelized pineapple, flan, typically local coconut ice, napolitains and other local pastries.
Karay Mario is located in a building that is over a hundred years old. It was formerly the Beau Vallon sugar company’s private clinic. The former offices and consultations have been turned into private dining rooms while the old common room now includes the bar and a large table for groups. The stone walls have been preserved as well as the house’s heavy wooden shutters, painted red. A few years ago, the building was also home to Baz’Art, an open space where concerts and exhibitions were held to promote Mauritian arts and culture.
Ka ra y M a r i o位于一座有百余年历史的建筑物中。该建筑曾是博瓦隆糖业公司的私立诊所。之前的办公室和会诊室现在成了私人餐厅，而以前的公共休息室现在包含酒吧和供团体就餐的大桌。几年前，该建筑也是B a z’A r t 的总部，在这里举行推广毛里求斯艺术和文化的音乐会和展览。
With a capacity of 60 covers between the veranda and private individual rooms, Karay Mario can also accommodate seats under parasols in the garden, depending on the season. The restaurant is open for lunch every day except Thursday. Private group bookings for receptions are also welcome in the evening.
This year, the team plans to open on Friday and Saturday evenings, depending on demand.
Within the first year of opening, Karay Mario has already earned a great reputation via word of mouth. A few months ago, the French pastry chef and chocolatier Fréderic Bau visited the restaurant during a short layover on the island. Likewise, an Italian chef was recently at Karay Mario to shoot a cooking show for Italian television.
“I like these moments. After all, tables were designed for people to share experiences, “says Mario.
穿着围裙、一直戴着帽子的店主会在装有红色木制百叶窗的老建筑中迎接宾客。M a r i o d e l’E s t ra c在长期从事餐饮酒店业之后，开办了自己的餐馆，与访客们一同分享正宗毛里求斯菜。因此，M a r i o返回了他的家乡M a h é b o u rg 附近。这间餐馆让他的退休生活变得繁忙起来，也给他带来了乐趣。M a r i o的业务始于厨房，之后在酒店业的地位不断提高。而他仍然保持着对烹饪的热情。Ka ra y M a r i o是一家家族企业。M a r i o的女儿M é l a n i e 提到了开张前用六个月时间剥去墙皮，露出旧式石质建筑的过程：“我们想要在全家都喜欢的南部区域制造真正的壁炉。我们的目标客户是工作日的商业客户和周末的家庭客户。”餐馆于 2 018 年 11 月开张。M a r i o的妻子A r i a n e在烹制毛里求斯菜品和炖煮所用配料的技术方面很有天分。“正宗的毛里求斯菜是慢慢做出来的，就像我的祖母当年的做法一样，同时还要利用精选且配比合理的原料，通过炖煮让香味透出来。”M a r i o 解释道。菜单每天都会变化，有三到四种菜品可选。菜品从熏肉炖 ro u g a i l l e（辣番茄）到鱼汤和 b rè d e s m o u ro u m（辣木叶），甚至还可提供咖喱鹿肉或野猪肉，以及野味炖肉。素食主义者可以选择咖喱菠萝蜜。此外，该餐馆还提供木瓜咖喱、野味炖肉或炖菜配鱼和章鱼。在周日，会有成群的访客来品尝炖螃蟹。Ka ra y Ma rio 的新鲜食材均订购自M a h é b o u rg的渔民和农民，野味均由 F e r n ey 猎场猎取。甜点同样每天均有变化：木瓜酱、焦糖菠萝、果馅饼、当地常见的椰子糖和其他当地点心。Ka ra y M a r i o可容纳6 0名顾客进餐，但也可根据季节在园中设下更多座椅。除周四外，餐馆每天都提供午餐。在晚上，餐馆也接待私人团体预订。Ka ra y M a r i o在开张的第一年就积累了优良的口碑，迎来了一些星级顾客的拜访，例如在此处短暂停留期间拜访参观的法国西饼厨师 F ré d e r i c B a u，或在这里进行烹饪表演，并得到意大利电视台转播的的一位意大利厨师。