KARAY MARIO

SLOW COOKING AT ITS FINEST 慢工出细活的烹饪

Islander (English - Chinese) - - SERVING - TEXT 文: ADELINE FOR­GET • PHO­TOS 摄影: LYNN ERASMUS

Mau­ri­tian cui­sine was tra­di­tion­ally cre­ated around a cre­ative as­sort­ment of f lavours left to sim­mer for hours. At Karay Mario in Beau Val­lon, in the south of the is­land, that tra­di­tion is fully em­braced. The house’s pri­or­i­ties are old recipes, fresh pro­duce and a warm wel­come.

传统的毛里求斯菜基于­数小时炖煮产生的各种­味道的创造性混合。位于博瓦隆 (Beau Val­lon) 的 Karay Mario 完全接受了这一传统。这间餐馆的优先事项包­括旧式菜单、新鲜产品和热情的欢迎。

In an old build­ing with red wooden shut­ters, the owner wel­comes his guests in his apron and peren­nial hat. Af­ter a long ca­reer in cater­ing and hos­pi­tal­ity, Mario de l’Es­trac opened his own place so he could share au­then­tic Mau­ri­tian cui­sine with his vis­i­tors.

When he moved to Beau Val­lon, Mario re­turned to his home­town in Mahébourg. He chose to open this restau­rant to work through his re­tire­ment but also to have fun. In­deed, he be­gan the trade in the kitchen. Though he then rose through the ranks in the ho­tel busi­ness, his love for food re­mained. “Cooking is a real pas­sion of mine. Even at the peak of my ca­reer as di­rec­tor of Ile aux Deux Co­cos, I was of­ten in the kitchen for my own plea­sure, “says Mario.

Karay Mario is a fam­ily busi­ness. Mario’s daugh­ter Mélanie still re­mem­bers the search for the right lo­ca­tion and the six months spent strip­ping the walls to re­veal the old stone work: “We wanted to cre­ate a true hearth in the re­gion be­cause the whole fam­ily loves the south. We were tar­get­ing busi­ness cus­tomers in the area who might then come back with their fam­i­lies over the week­end.”

The restau­rant opened in Novem­ber 2018. It also re­lies on the tal­ent of Ari­ane, wife of Mario. The lady of the house has a flair for tasty Mau­ri­tian dishes, but above all for the sci­ence of sim­mer­ing in­gre­di­ents. “Real Mau­ri­tian cui­sine is made slowly. Like our grand­moth­ers, we pre­pare all the in­gre­di­ents care­fully, dose them well and let them sim­mer as long as it takes to bring out the flavours, “ex­plains Mario.

The menu changes daily with three or four op­tions. They range from smoked meat rougaille to fish broth and brèdes mouroum (moringa leaves) or even deer or wild boar in a curry or salmi. Veg­e­tar­i­ans can opt for jackfruit curry. The house also serves fish and oc­to­pus, in a pa­paya curry, salmi or stew.

On Sun­days, vis­i­tors come in crowds for the crab stew. Karay Mario or­ders fresh sup­plies from fish­er­men, fish­mon­gers and farm­ers in Mahébourg, while the restau­rant’s game is sourced from the Fer­ney hunt­ing prop­erty. The dessert menu also changes daily: pa­paya jam, caramelize­d pineap­ple, flan, typ­i­cally local co­conut ice, napoli­tains and other local pas­tries.

AU­THEN­TIC SET­TING

Karay Mario is lo­cated in a build­ing that is over a hun­dred years old. It was formerly the Beau Val­lon sugar com­pany’s pri­vate clinic. The for­mer of­fices and con­sul­ta­tions have been turned into pri­vate din­ing rooms while the old com­mon room now in­cludes the bar and a large ta­ble for groups. The stone walls have been pre­served as well as the house’s heavy wooden shut­ters, painted red. A few years ago, the build­ing was also home to Baz’Art, an open space where con­certs and ex­hi­bi­tions were held to pro­mote Mau­ri­tian arts and cul­ture.

正宗布景

Ka ra y M a r i o位于一座有百余年历­史的建筑物中。该建筑曾是博瓦隆糖业­公司的私立诊所。之前的办公室和会诊室­现在成了私人餐厅,而以前的公共休息室现­在包含酒吧和供团体就­餐的大桌。几年前,该建筑也是B a z’A r t 的总部,在这里举行推广毛里求­斯艺术和文化的音乐会­和展览。

With a ca­pac­ity of 60 cov­ers be­tween the ve­randa and pri­vate in­di­vid­ual rooms, Karay Mario can also ac­com­mo­date seats un­der para­sols in the gar­den, de­pend­ing on the sea­son. The restau­rant is open for lunch ev­ery day ex­cept Thurs­day. Pri­vate group book­ings for re­cep­tions are also wel­come in the even­ing.

This year, the team plans to open on Fri­day and Satur­day evenings, de­pend­ing on de­mand.

Within the first year of open­ing, Karay Mario has al­ready earned a great rep­u­ta­tion via word of mouth. A few months ago, the French pas­try chef and choco­latier Fréderic Bau vis­ited the restau­rant dur­ing a short lay­over on the is­land. Like­wise, an Ital­ian chef was re­cently at Karay Mario to shoot a cooking show for Ital­ian tele­vi­sion.

“I like these mo­ments. Af­ter all, ta­bles were de­signed for peo­ple to share ex­pe­ri­ences, “says Mario.

穿着围裙、一直戴着帽子的店主会­在装有红色木制百叶窗­的老建筑中迎接宾客。M a r i o d e l’E s t ra c在长期从事餐饮酒店­业之后,开办了自己的餐馆,与访客们一同分享正宗­毛里求斯菜。因此,M a r i o返回了他的家乡M a h é b o u rg 附近。这间餐馆让他的退休生­活变得繁忙起来,也给他带来了乐趣。M a r i o的业务始于厨房,之后在酒店业的地位不­断提高。而他仍然保持着对烹饪­的热情。Ka ra y M a r i o是一家家族企业。M a r i o的女儿M é l a n i e 提到了开张前用六个月­时间剥去墙皮,露出旧式石质建筑的过­程:“我们想要在全家都喜欢­的南部区域制造真正的­壁炉。我们的目标客户是工作­日的商业客户和周末的­家庭客户。”餐馆于 2 018 年 11 月开张。M a r i o的妻子A r i a n e在烹制毛里求斯菜品­和炖煮所用配料的技术­方面很有天分。“正宗的毛里求斯菜是慢­慢做出来的,就像我的祖母当年的做­法一样,同时还要利用精选且配­比合理的原料,通过炖煮让香味透出来。”M a r i o 解释道。菜单每天都会变化,有三到四种菜品可选。菜品从熏肉炖 ro u g a i l l e(辣番茄)到鱼汤和 b rè d e s m o u ro u m(辣木叶),甚至还可提供咖喱鹿肉­或野猪肉,以及野味炖肉。素食主义者可以选择咖­喱菠萝蜜。此外,该餐馆还提供木瓜咖喱、野味炖肉或炖菜配鱼和­章鱼。在周日,会有成群的访客来品尝­炖螃蟹。Ka ra y Ma rio 的新鲜食材均订购自M a h é b o u rg的渔民和农民,野味均由 F e r n ey 猎场猎取。甜点同样每天均有变化:木瓜酱、焦糖菠萝、果馅饼、当地常见的椰子糖和其­他当地点心。Ka ra y M a r i o可容纳6 0名顾客进餐,但也可根据季节在园中­设下更多座椅。除周四外,餐馆每天都提供午餐。在晚上,餐馆也接待私人团体预­订。Ka ra y M a r i o在开张的第一年就积­累了优良的口碑,迎来了一些星级顾客的­拜访,例如在此处短暂停留期­间拜访参观的法国西饼­厨师 F ré d e r i c B a u,或在这里进行烹饪表演,并得到意大利电视台转­播的的一位意大利厨师。

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