What to watch for on Paris run­ways

The Myanmar Times - - The Pulse -

PARIS fash­ion week starts to­day with dizzy­ing changes at the top of some of the most fa­mous brands. Saint Lau­rent, Dior and Lan­vin all have new artis­tic di­rec­tors who will be putting on their first shows in their new roles.

With more than 90 run­way shows and dozens more pre­sen­ta­tions be­hind closed doors over nine days, the spring-sum­mer ready-towear col­lec­tions prom­ise to be the most scru­ti­nised for some time.

Here is our guide to the shows to watch out for:

Saint Lau­rent af­ter Sli­mane How will An­thony Vac­carello face up to the mas­sive chal­lenge of fill­ing Hedi Sli­mane’s Chelsea boots at Saint Lau­rent is the ques­tion on many fash­ion­istas’ lips.

Sli­mane, the man cred­ited with re­viv­ing skinny jeans, brought the French la­bel a whole new younger gen­er­a­tion of fans, drawn by his grungy rock-star chic.

Nor is Vac­carello a slouch when it comes to sass.

The 36-year-old Bel­gian has de­vel­oped a sexy, leggy, asym­met­ri­cal style since he first came to fame with a col­lec­tion in­spired by the Hungarian-Ital­ian porn-ac­tressturned-politi­cian la Cic­ci­olina.

And he showed he could do rock with the best of them with his de­signs for the younger Ver­sus Ver­sace la­bel.

Like Sli­mane, he has a taste for black.

And in a sign that he is pre­pared to sink all his cre­ative en­ergy into Saint Lau­rent, Vac­carello has put his own brand on hold.

All will be re­vealed at the Saint Lau­rent show tonight (to­mor­row morn­ing MMT).

Jar­rar at Lan­vin The pop­u­lar French haute cou­ture de­signer Bouchra Jar­rar debuts to­day at the head of Lan­vin, the old­est Paris cou­ture house of them all.

The 45-year-old takes over from Al­ber El­baz, who was fired in Oc­to­ber 2015 af­ter 14 years at the head of the la­bel, in a move that caused dis­may at the time.

The la­bel’s re­doubtable Tai­wanese owner busi­ness­woman Shaw-Lan Wang has now turned to Jar­rar, and her pure, el­e­gant lines are likely to mark Lan­vin’s show to­mor­row.

Jar­rar, whose par­ents came from Morocco, worked her way up through Ba­len­ci­aga and Chris­tian Lacroix be­fore launch­ing her own la­bel in 2010.

Dior’s Ital­ian job But per­haps the week’s big­gest mo­ment will be Ital­ian de­signer Maria Grazia Chi­uri’s de­but show on Septem­ber 30 at Dior as the first woman ever to lead the house.

The 52-year-old helped re­vive Valentino with her cre­ative part­ner Pier­paolo Pic­ci­oli be­fore leav­ing him to run the Ro­man brand alone this sum­mer.

Like the Bel­gian Raf Si­mons who she suc­ceeded, hers is a sober, re­strained aes­thetic with ro­man­tic flour­ishes, very much in con­trast to the flam­boy­ant the­atrics of John Gal­liano’s time at the helm.

Si­mons has since moved on to the more mass-mar­ket Calvin Klein.

Leonard’s new face French de­signer Chris­tine Phung is the other new ar­rival of the week. The 37-year-old, who has her own prize-win­ning la­bel, will give her first show for Leonard next week.

Leonard, which was founded by Daniel Tri­bouil­lard in 1958, and is known for its flo­ral prints, has seen a suc­ces­sion of de­sign­ers in re­cent years.

Photo: AFP

A model presents a cre­ation for fash­ion house Sal­va­tore Fer­rag­amo dur­ing the 2017 Women’s Spring/Sum­mer col­lec­tions shows at Mi­lan Fash­ion Week, which serves as a pre­cur­sor to Paris’ fash­ion week that starts to­day.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Myanmar

© PressReader. All rights reserved.