Ger­man restau­rants

go! Namibia - - WHERE TO EAT -

To visit Swakop­mund and not try Ger­man cui­sine is like vis­it­ing Egypt and look­ing the other way when you get to the pyra­mids. Th­ese three Ger­man restau­rants are tops.

Swakop­mund Brauhaus

The Brauhaus is a typ­i­cal Ger­man hang­out that has been around for years. De­spite a fire in 2010, it bounced back quickly. It’s a ca­sual spot where you can have lunch or din­ner, or just a draught beer.

Try the veni­son steak (R135), pan-fried kingk­lip with pars­ley pota­toes, salad and lemon but­ter sauce (R125) or the Steak Madame (R105) – a small beef fil­let with rösti (fried shred­ded-potato cake) and steamed as­para­gus drenched in but­ter. And save space for apfel­strudel with custard (R50) – I reckon they’re hid­ing a Ger­man granny in the kitchen who makes it just right.

The Brauhaus is popular with tourists and lo­cals alike so book in ad­vance. Where? In the Ar­cade, Sam Nu­joma Av­enue GPS: S22.67789 E14.52568 Open­ing times: Mon­day to Satur­day, 10 am – 2.30 pm and 5 pm – 9.30 pm. Closed on Sun­days. Con­tact: 00 264 64 402 214;

swakop­mund­brauhaus.com

Kücki’s Pub, Swakop­mund

This restau­rant is more than a mere “pub”. It does have two bars, but Kücki’s (which has been around since 1981) is also a great place for din­ner.

The orig­i­nal owner Kücki (Wolf­gang) Kuh­hirt might have moved shop to the Ro­s­tock Ritz Desert Lodge (next to the C14 to Soli­taire) years ago, but his choice of decor means he won’t be forgotten any­time soon. There’s a piece of his J400 Jabiru aero­plane in­side the restau­rant – a re­minder of a 2009 ac­ci­dent that saw Kücki crash-land on a golf course dur­ing a thun­der­storm. “Ja, I’ve al­ways wanted to hit a hole in one,” he told me.

The Ger­mans like their meat and the por­tions at Kücki’s are mas­sive. How does a 500 g gar­lic steak for R148 sound? Not big enough? Then sink your car­ni­vore teeth into a 1 kg steak (R270) and say hello to the meat sweats.

They also have schnitzel (from R94), roasted pork with red cab­bage (R113) and pork ribs (R112), eis­bein and sauer­kraut (R117), sword­fish with lemon but­ter (R118), tuna steak with roasted veggies (R102) and pan-fried ka­beljou (R106). A por­tion of fresh Swakop­mund as­para­gus (R84) for the ta­ble, served with pars­ley pota­toes, is al­ways a good idea.

Kücki’s has a good wine list with wines from many well-known South African cel­lars. Where? 22 To­bias Hainyeko Av­enue GPS: S22.67988 E14.52538 Open­ing times: Daily from 5 pm to 9.30 pm (the kitchen closes then but the bar stays open…) Con­tact: 00 264 64 402 407; kuck­ispub.com

Willi Probst Bak­ery and restau­rant, Walvis Bay

This bak­ery is part of many peo­ple’s daily rou­tine. You’ll see the wait­ress take the man with the news­pa­per a cof­fee with cream with­out him hav­ing to ask. A group of Por­tuguese women show up at 10 am ev­ery day to chat around “their” ta­ble.

“We don’t play mu­sic so peo­ple can talk to each other,” says owner Astrid Deetlefs. Astrid’s grand­par­ents started the bak­ery in 1957. “In those days

“We don’t play mu­sic so peo­ple can talk to each other,” says Astrid Deetlefs, owner of the Willi Probst Bak­ery.

there were lots of in­de­pen­dent bak­eries in Walvis Bay. My grand­fa­ther Willi brought his recipe for whole­wheat bread from Ger­many. But soon all the bak­eries merged to sat­isfy the bread de­mand of the town’s res­i­dents and the navy. In the 1980s the first su­per­mar­kets opened and each had its own bak­ery. They put the in­de­pen­dent bak­eries out of busi­ness.”

For­tu­nately the Probst fam­ily’s bak­ery sur­vived – thanks mostly to the restau­rant part of the busi­ness. Grandpa Willi’s bread is still baked here, plus French baguettes and other rolls.

Dur­ing lunch hour, of­fice work­ers come in for fried liver and onions, a kassler chop or two, stroganoff with noodles, or bratwurst and potato salad. They also sell Ger­man sausages, 10 kinds of omelette, and cof­fee with marsh­mal­lows.

The bak­ery’s va­ri­ety of brötchen – open bread rolls with de­li­cious toppings (see pic, right) – is leg­endary. There are 78 to choose from! Try the brötchen with rauch­fleisch (smoked beef ) and a hard-boiled egg or a few rings of raw onion.

I ask Astrid how many eggs she uses per month? She makes a few rough cal­cu­la­tions: “R30 000 worth of eggs. And about 600 kg of flour per week. We bake 2 500 brötchen a day!” Where? Cor­ner of Theo-Ben Gurirab Av­enue and 12th Road GPS: S22.95641 E14.50470 Open­ing times: Mon­day to Fri­day from 6.30 am to 5.45 pm; Satur­day from 6.30 am to 2 pm. Closed on Sun­days. Con­tact: 00 264 64 202 744;

williprob­st­bak­ery.webs.com

Kücki’s Pub

Swakop­mund Brauhaus

Mem­ory Hipon­doka, Willi Probst Bak­ery

Astrid Deetlefs

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