The Everest is the last car to leave the Sossus parking area. We’re reluctant to go. A gemsbok poses for us, its shoulders slumped but its horns forever skyward – the silhouette looks like a battle-weary knight holding his weapons aloft on a horse. The landscape, now shrouded in fast-gathering dusk, is grey and stark. Stripped of its daily human visitors it suddenly feels ancient again: 100 % wild.