cape fear

the heaviest and most dangerous wave in the world

Words by Frances Henson Images compliments of Red Bull If you know anything about the surf break in Sydney known locally as "Ours", you'll know it's a wave not to be messed with. Research it up on the internet and you'll find the following advice, "very heavy wave best left to those with extreme talent or death wish." So what is there to fear? Pretty much everything when it comes to "Ours." The infamously dangerous wave breaks no more than ten to fifteen meters from a shallow cliff face blanketed with barnacles as sharp as glass. And if the worry of getting swept out by these monstrous swells isn't bad enough, surfers have to be vigilant of the rocks below them as well. A very small, select amount of people in the world wide surfing community can brag about having surfed “Ours”, as they are definitely some of the most elusive waves in the surfing world. A group known as the Bra Boys are the usual wielders of these powerful waves. Their reputation wasn't earned easily, as first they had to risk their lives to become the masters of Cape Fear. These men truly can call it "Ours". So it's no surprise that Red Bull chose this location for their annual big wave event. On the south side of Botany Bay, "Ours" otherwise known as Cape Fear, breaks treacherously on the sharp jagged rocks below. According to big wave surfer, Mark Mathews, "Pound for pound, Cape Fear is the heaviest and most dangerous wave in the world." Very few experienced, fearless surfers were invited to compete in this year’s Red Bull Cape Fear competition. It’s no lie to say that the room for mistakes is non-existent, not just for the loss of a win, but for the loss of your life as well. This year the event was lucky to even be held; extreme conditions nearly cancelled it as it did the year before, and some described it as being the biggest the break had ever been surfed. The competition spanned two days and amazingly enough, though they saw some jaw dropping wipeouts, there was only one injury. At the end of the first heat Justen ‘Jughead’ Allport disappeared in an enraged wall of churning water and white froth moving at impossible speeds. He resurfaced with a bleeding head and a bent shoulder, but alive. Like a true soldier when he was asked how he felt the next morning he simply replied, "a little bit sore."

The morning provided an intense two hours of surfing as the competitors battled 12 – 15 foot monsters. The highlights reel is worth a watch as nothing can quite capture the challenges the surfers faced on the first day of competition. However, the paddle-in was cancelled due to the height and speed of the waves, and conditions deteriorated to the point that they posed such a great threat to the surfers that the event had to be postponed. On the second day the waves had cleaned up, although it was not the end of the spectacular surfing and equally spectacular wipeouts. Laurie Towner, Kirk Flintoff, and Perth Standlick all provided remarkable displays of surfing as well as remarkable wipeouts before the finals took place. It was as if these waves had to keep reminding viewers and competitors just how powerful they were. As promised, Red Bull Cape Fear provided us with two days, four heats and a final of nail biting surfing. By the end of the second day it was locals, James 'Rooster' Adams and Koby Abberton against Ryan Hipwood from the Gold Coast and 18 year old Russell Bierke from the South Coast of NSW. Over the two days, there were many touch and go moments, endless scares, and wipeouts worthy for years of tales yet to come. Young, determined and talented Russell Bierke rose above the rest and took out the prize, even finishing his impressive streak with a ten. Keep your eyes and ears open for him; he's far from finished. Maybe him and Cape Fear will meet again.