Keya Matthews

Black Magazine - - Contents -

Grant Fell: Who are you and how would you de­scribe what you do? My name is Kido Deng; I was born in Shang­hai, China, I have been based in New Zealand for 10 years. I grad­u­ated from White­cliffe Col­lege of Arts and De­sign as a BFA fash­ion ma­jor in 2013, and I am cur­rently work­ing as the Re­tail Brand­ing De­vel­op­ment Di­rec­tor for X-plain cloth­ing. I would de­scribe my­self as a con­cep­tual fash­ion de­signer. I draw in­spi­ra­tion from mul­ti­ple cre­ative dis­ci­plines in­clud­ing art, fash­ion, and ar­chi­tec­ture to in­form all el­e­ments of my de­sign process. I use this method to form a co­he­sive con­cep­tual nar­ra­tive for each col­lec­tion, which ar­tic­u­lates my con­cep­tual vi­sion from all as­pects of the de­sign process through to run­way pre­sen­ta­tion. I con­sider the body as a walk­ing art­work, viewed in the ex­pe­ri­en­tial sculp­tural terms of a form mov­ing through space. I fo­cus on high­light­ing a min­i­mal­is­tic rep­re­sen­ta­tion of the body by re­duc­ing the form to its sim­plest representational lines. Then through de­sign and fab­ri­ca­tion, I sub­vert them to trans­form the fig­ure accentuating move­ment and sug­ges­tive line. Your win­ter 2014 col­lec­tion is called Quake. Why did you call it Quake? Quake ar­tic­u­lates the de­con­struc­tion of an ex­ist­ing com­po­si­tion by nat­u­ral means to form new geo­met­ric representational shapes. I have main­tained a sig­na­ture aes­thetic of a sculp­tural, ar­chi­tec­tural ap­proach to the body con­sid­er­ing vol­ume and ges­ture. This is a con­sis­tent run­ning theme in my prac­tice, which I have pro­gres­sively re­fined with each col­lec­tion cre­at­ing a sense of uni­for­mity and de­sign


iden­tity. The sig­na­ture fea­tures of Quake are lux­u­ri­ous nat­u­ral ma­te­ri­als such as silk, wool, cash­mere, Amer­i­can short hair mink, Rus­sian sil­ver fox fur, kid leather, stretched lamb leather and mar­ble.this sea­son I have de­vel­oped a range of monochro­matic mar­ble ac­ces­sories to com­pli­ment the col­lec­tion. I aimed to sub­vert tra­di­tional ma­te­ri­als used in fash­ion ref­er­enc­ing my con­cept of the con­nec­tion fash­ion has to art and ar­chi­tec­ture. Mar­ble as a tra­di­tional medium of clas­si­cal sculp­ture and ar­chi­tec­ture though is an un­con­ven­tional ma­te­rial in fash­ion. There were sev­eral fea­ture leather jack­ets in the col­lec­tion – black and white pan­el­ing with at­tached fur pieces around the waist, arms and on one, run­ning down the back – can you talk us through those pieces and the way you have mixed the leather and fur? The col­lec­tion takes form in two sto­ries, each sug­ges­tive of one side of a con­trast­ing bi­nary con­ver­sa­tion of weight and opac­ity. The first story is of trans­parency, ref­er­enc­ing Ja­panese origami tech­niques I em­pha­sised meth­ods of fold­ing, pleat­ing and over­lap­ping sheer fab­rics to cre­ate unique shapes and tex­tures. This is placed in con­trast with the sec­ond story con­structed out of richer weight­ier tex­tures of leather and fur, such as on the pieces you men­tioned, fo­cus­ing on the stronger sculp­tural forms cre­ated by th­ese ma­te­ri­als. Where are you at with the Kido Deng brand? Will this col­lec­tion or any of it go into pro­duc­tion, or are you set­ting your­self up after grad­u­at­ing from White­cliffe? I am fo­cus­ing on gain­ing more in­dus­try ex­pe­ri­ence be­fore mov­ing onto the next phase of my ca­reer, which could be de­sign­ing my own brand. Tell us more about work­ing at X-plain, what is your role there? X-plain’s con­cept em­bod­ies in­no­va­tive, al­ter­na­tive fash­ion de­sign that is af­ford­able, easy to care for and suits all ages. I be­gan work­ing with X-plain cloth­ing de­signer Karen Zhang in early 2013 whilst com­plet­ing the fi­nal year of my BFA de­gree. As the Re­tail Brand­ing De­vel­op­ment Di­rec­tor, I have been work­ing closely with Karen through­out the found­ing stages of the company. In this role, I am re­spon­si­ble for over­see­ing all as­pects of the X-plain brand. We are in such an ex­cit­ing phase hav­ing just opened the X-plain flag­ship store lo­cated at 18B Os­borne Street, New­mar­ket. Our con­cept was to launch a multi-brand, des­ti­na­tion store, host­ing a fan­tas­tic se­lec­tion of well-es­tab­lished, New Zealand fash­ion la­bels that blend co­he­sively with the aes­thetic of X-plain. We feel so lucky to be able to support the launch of all our favourite New Zealand de­sign­ers Jimmy D, Lela Ja­cobs, Kow­tow, Nyne, Company of Strangers, Maaike, and Chaos and Har­mony within an es­tab­lished fash­ion dis­trict. We feel Os­borne Street is the ideal des­ti­na­tion to in­tro­duce this co­he­sive col­lec­tion of New Zealand fash­ion la­bels in one store. Your favourite de­signer has of­fered to make you an out­fit. Who is the de­signer and what would they make you? Omg if I can only choose one, it would have to be a made to mea­sure Rick Owens, Hun col­lec­tion, black fisher vest! You have a din­ner party for four peo­ple, who are they (dead or alive) and what would you cook? I would in­vite Fran Le­bowitz, Rick Owens, Charles James, and Han­ni­bal lec­tor ... I would serve them 1982 Chateau Lafite on an empty stom­ach and see what hap­pens. What is the most trea­sured item of cloth­ing in your wardrobe? My most trea­sured item is my Saga, su­perb grade, Fin­nish sil­ver fox stole from my mum. Thanks Mum x

Cre­ative Di­rec­tor: Rachael Church­ward Styling: Seb Mcgirr-hunt and Dy­lan James Richards Hair: Ste­fan Knight us­ing O&M Make-up: Carolyn Haslett us­ing M.A.C Cos­met­ics Model: Eve­lyn Rose at Red 11. Shot at: White Stu­dios

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