JANO BISTRO

15/20

Cuisine - Good Food Guide - - Wellington -

The lit­tle yel­low cot­tage on Wil­lis St looks a bit like some­thing out of a fairy tale. In­side, the sense of dis­cov­ery con­tin­ues as you climb a flight of steep stairs, then settle into one of the in­ti­mate booths. The din­ing room is fairly min­i­mal in its decor, but it soon be­comes clear that all your at­ten­tion is go­ing to be oc­cu­pied by what’s on your plate. Chef Pierre-alain Fe­noux de­lights in ex­per­i­men­ta­tion, as in his rein­ven­tion of the French clas­sic “onion soup” – onion con­sommé topped by an onion mousse and onion salt, then sprin­kled with fine bread­crumbs. And a dish of veni­son with beet­root, prune tu­ille, blue­ber­ries and farro is dy­na­mite. This is clever, as­sured cook­ing with plenty of tech­nique un­der­scor­ing it, and a lovely sense of whimsy at play. Wait­staff, mean­while, are con­fi­dent in sug­gest­ing matches from the well-cho­sen wine list. 270 Wil­lis St, Te Aro, ph: 04-382 9892, janobistro.co.nz Din­ner Tues-sun; mains $29-$38 IN BRIEF A sim­ple room with in­no­va­tive, ex­cit­ing dishes

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