LO­GAN BROWN

15.5/20

Cuisine - Good Food Guide - - Wellington -

Housed in a mag­nif­i­cent old bank build­ing with a soar­ing neo-clas­si­cal dome in­laid with sculp­tural re­liefs, Lo­gan Brown is ar­chi­tec­turally splen­did. It’s a Welling­ton in­sti­tu­tion and de­spite the grandeur, the restau­rant al­ways feels wel­com­ing – din­ing here is spe­cial and in­ti­mate, but far from stuffy. Shaun Clous­ton’s menu is all about in­no­va­tive twists on lo­cal, sea­sonal in­gre­di­ents. Stout-braised beef cheeks are paired with rare beef fil­let, with but­ter­nut and Wairarapa-grown lentils pro­vid­ing earth­i­ness and a scoop of lime and chipo­tle mayo the fi­nal flour­ish, while pump­kin pap­pardelle is topped with roasted beets, broad beans, wal­nuts and New Zealand truf­fle. Ser­vice is pol­ished and friendly and the wine list ex­ten­sive, with an im­pres­sive by-the-glass se­lec­tion. 192 Cuba St, Te Aro, ph: 04-801 5114, lo­gan­brown.co.nz Lunch Wed-sat, high tea Sat, din­ner Tues-sun; mains $37-$42 IN BRIEF An el­e­gant all-round ex­pe­ri­ence

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