O’CONNELL STREET BISTRO
A revitalised O’connell Street, now in its 20th year, is once again on form after a fire closed the restaurant for most of the last year. Owner Chris Upton is still a beacon of excellence in service and fine wines. Sommelier Benji Smith is charming and approachable, without a hint of stuffiness, while restaurant manager Jake Makin runs a smoothly flowing room. The main dining room oozes warmth and cosiness, while the tiny bar still charms, and summertime seating on the pedestrianised street outside is a nice new touch. Chef Mark Southon’s classy and sophisticated menu includes the classics that have made O’connell’s name (pappardelle of wild Bendigo rabbit, for example), while also bringing some modern touches, such as the crayfish ravioli with fennel remoulade and a superb bisque.
3 O’connell St, City, 09 377 1884, oconnellstbistro.com Lunch Mon-fri, dinner Mon-sat; mains $38-$45
Fine wines, classy IN BRIEF food and sophisticated service