Cuisine - Good Food Guide - - Auckland -

It’s the equal re­spect the Or­phans Kitchen team gives to all in­gre­di­ents, not just pre­mium pro­teins, that makes a meal here so won­der­ful from start to fin­ish. Sec­ondary cuts, even of­f­cuts, are wel­comed into Tom His­hon’s kitchen and he makes them sing. A sim­ple plat­ter of Ao­raki Mt Cook salmon wings, anointed with horo­pito and honey from the restaurant’s rooftop hives, meets the heat of the wood­fired grill for just enough time to her­ald a carameli­sa­tion around the edges and a juicy, just-cooked in­te­rior. Ser­vice is friendly and con­fi­dently ca­sual, the drinks list small and in­ter­est­ing. In­gre­di­ents are all lo­cally pro­cured – even the ba­nana that goes into the most won­der­fully rich ice cream is grown 10 min­utes’ walk away at Kel­marna Gar­dens.

118 Pon­sonby Rd, Pon­sonby, 09 378 7979, or­phan­skitchen.co.nz Brunch Mon-fri, din­ner Tues­sat; larger plates $29-$40

Cui­sine with heart IN BRIEF and con­science, and friendly ser­vice to match

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