PINOC­CHIO

14/20

Cuisine - Good Food Guide - - Hawke’s Bay -

Pinoc­chio is a high-end Mart­in­bor­ough bistro owned by chef Paul Ansell and his wife Elly, who ably runs front of house. Ansell has pre­vi­ously cooked at Martin Bosley’s, The White House and Lo­gan Brown in Welling­ton, as well as at Peter Gor­don’s The Provi­dores in Lon­don, and his food is all about ad­vanced tech­nique and re­fine­ment. The com­ple­men­tary flavours and con­trast­ing tex­tures of dishes like con­fit duck leg, parsnip puree, ku­mara gratin, duck liver par­fait, orange jus and spinach make a fine ex­am­ple of Ansell’s skill, as does an en­tree of six-hour braised beef cheek with re­moulade, parsnip puree, baby beets and hazel­nuts. It’s all backed up with a small but ap­pro­pri­ately parochial by-the-glass wine list (though the bot­tle-only cel­lar list is wider rang­ing).

3 Kitch­ener St, Mart­in­bor­ough, 06 306 6094, pinoc­chio mart­in­bor­ough.co.nz Din­ner Wed-sun; mains $29-$38

IN BRIEF Bistro din­ing taken up a notch in Mart­in­bor­ough

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