Logan Brown is the grand old lady of the Wellington dining scene. The vast, circular dining room is set beneath a neo-classical dome, held up by Corinthian columns, in a former banking chamber. The cuisine is also classical and mostly familiar, but within these parameters, there is a willingness to experiment and introduce international ingredients, for example, wrapping scampi fillets in sheets of nori seaweed and pairing them with a Jerusalem artichoke and preserved lemon risotto, with a crayfish bisque poured around at the table. The imposing setting, attentive, thoughtful service and impressive drinks list, combined with bare wooden tables and refined bistroinspired dishes, add up to a relaxed but special, delicious dining experience.
192 Cuba St, Te Aro, 04 801 5114, loganbrown.co.nz Lunch Wed-sat, high tea Fri-sat, dinner Tues-sun; mains $39-$43
IN BRIEF Skilled bistro cooking with a fine-dining edge