Good Food Guide - - Wellington -

Lo­gan Brown is the grand old lady of the Welling­ton din­ing scene. The vast, cir­cu­lar din­ing room is set be­neath a neo-clas­si­cal dome, held up by Corinthian col­umns, in a for­mer bank­ing cham­ber. The cui­sine is also clas­si­cal and mostly fa­mil­iar, but within these pa­ram­e­ters, there is a will­ing­ness to ex­per­i­ment and in­tro­duce in­ter­na­tional in­gre­di­ents, for ex­am­ple, wrap­ping scampi fil­lets in sheets of nori sea­weed and pair­ing them with a Jerusalem artichoke and pre­served lemon risotto, with a cray­fish bisque poured around at the ta­ble. The im­pos­ing set­ting, at­ten­tive, thought­ful ser­vice and im­pres­sive drinks list, com­bined with bare wooden ta­bles and re­fined bistroin­spired dishes, add up to a re­laxed but spe­cial, de­li­cious din­ing ex­pe­ri­ence.

192 Cuba St, Te Aro, 04 801 5114, lo­gan­brown.co.nz Lunch Wed-sat, high tea Fri-sat, din­ner Tues-sun; mains $39-$43

IN BRIEF Skilled bistro cook­ing with a fine-din­ing edge

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