Riverstone Kitchen’s piece de resistance is its extensive gardens and orchards and the superbly fresh ingredients that come from them. If you walk around the gardens before your meal, you may catch one of the chefs popping out for a few herbs or someone taking a box of vegetables into the kitchen. Chef and owner Bevan Smith’s food is simple, with flavour and integrity rather than fussiness or showiness. A good example is the roast free-range chicken with wet polenta, cavolo nero and richly flavoursome porcini mushrooms, or the contrasting temperatures and textures of a hot, fluffy raspberry souffle, frozen raspberry ice cream, runny chocolate ganache and crisp almond bread. The extensive wine and beer lists make fascinating reading and knowledgeable staff will suggest matches for the food.