Cuisine - - FIONA SMITH -

serv­ing sim­ple, rea­son­ably priced food, has been trans­formed in re­cent years. Young chefs are stir­ring things up in bistro kitchens, in­tro­duc­ing flavours bor­rowed from other cul­tures and mix­ing them up with tra­di­tional French cook­ing – and the re­sults can be stun­ning. One of the best ex­am­ples of this I have ex­pe­ri­enced was at Le Ser­van in Paris, where Ta­tiana Levha adds in­ter­na­tional flavours to beau­ti­fully ex­e­cuted dishes. My high­lights were the boudin noir won­ton and a corn velouté with crab that was spiked with chilli. Here I’ve taken some clas­sic French dishes and given them a slightly North African twist. You could choose one of the two en­tree dishes or serve both if you want a grand feast.

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