Bistron­omy

Cuisine - - GOOD FOOD AWARDS 2017 -

17 / 20

THERE’S a lot go­ing on in this ca­sual, mod­ern eatery, from the bustling ac­tiv­ity to the com­plex menu of in­tri­cate dishes. Che­fowner James Beck uses sea­sonal, lo­cal in­gre­di­ents in novel and in­ge­nious ways, ex­plor­ing the char­ac­ter­is­tics of of­ten hum­ble in­gre­di­ents and el­e­vat­ing them to a higher sta­tus. Hay-smoked chicken is clev­erly paired with “car­rot tex­tures” (meringue, puree, shred­ded, braised), while a dessert of pump­kin cheese­cake (a de­con­struc­tion of pump­kin mousse, pump­kin seed ice cream and can­died seeds, pas­sion­fruit curd, gel and leather, and beet cake, crumbs and sliv­ers) demon­strates his out­stand­ing tech­niques to su­perb ef­fect. The care­fully cu­rated drinks list fea­tures lo­cal craft beers and bou­tique wines, many avail­able in dif­fer­ent pour sizes, and the per­son­able wait­staff are well versed in the menu and knowl­edge­able about suit­able wine matches. A de­servedly pop­u­lar com­bi­na­tion.

DE­TAILS

40 Hast­ings St, Napier, 06 834 4309, bistron­omy.co.nz; lunch & dinner Wed-Sun, mains $18-$30

IN BRIEF

In­ge­nious, multi-faceted fare in a bustling, mod­ern space

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