THE ANGRY CHEF
ANTHONY WARNER, ONEWORLD, P/B, $27
“CLEAN EATING started as a fringe movement but has grown into a huge and unrepentant tide of nutribollocks,” writes Anthony Warner in The Angry
Chef, as he proceeds to demolish the pseudoscience behind many popular food fads. Detoxing, gluten-free, alkaline ash, coconut oil, and, my personal favourite, paleo – none escape the vitriol of this English chef, who has a degree in biochemistry. Warner has written this book off the back of his popular website of the same name. The catalyst for launching the website was listening to a blogger at a food industry event make some comments he found a little odd – that anything homemade has to be healthier than something that comes from a factory, for example – and seeing everyone around him nodding sagely. It’s that widespread acceptance of advice with little scientific basis that concerns Warner. Because while cutting out gluten unnecessarily or supping on “bone broth” might be harmless, it’s the
insidious nature of fads like the GAPS diet, a highly restrictive diet that targets the parents of autistic children with claims it will cure them, that we should all be worried about.