THE AN­GRY CHEF

Cuisine - - HIDDEN GEM - AN

AN­THONY WARNER, ONEWORLD, P/B, $27

“CLEAN EAT­ING started as a fringe move­ment but has grown into a huge and un­re­pen­tant tide of nu­tri­bol­locks,” writes An­thony Warner in The An­gry

Chef, as he pro­ceeds to de­mol­ish the pseu­do­science be­hind many pop­u­lar food fads. De­tox­ing, gluten-free, al­ka­line ash, co­conut oil, and, my per­sonal favourite, pa­leo – none es­cape the vit­riol of this English chef, who has a de­gree in bio­chem­istry. Warner has writ­ten this book off the back of his pop­u­lar web­site of the same name. The cat­a­lyst for launch­ing the web­site was lis­ten­ing to a blog­ger at a food in­dus­try event make some com­ments he found a lit­tle odd – that any­thing homemade has to be health­ier than some­thing that comes from a fac­tory, for ex­am­ple – and see­ing ev­ery­one around him nod­ding sagely. It’s that wide­spread ac­cep­tance of ad­vice with lit­tle sci­en­tific ba­sis that con­cerns Warner. Be­cause while cut­ting out gluten un­nec­es­sar­ily or sup­ping on “bone broth” might be harm­less, it’s the

in­sid­i­ous na­ture of fads like the GAPS diet, a highly re­stric­tive diet that tar­gets the par­ents of autis­tic chil­dren with claims it will cure them, that we should all be wor­ried about.

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